Gotham Patterns: 19th C. Primary Texts

The Englishwomans Domestic Magazine

Vol III. London: S.O. Beeton, 248, Strand, W.C. 1861

May

Last month we spoke of the light-coloured cloth CLOAKS, trmmed with silk of various shades, which is sometimes stitched on with white and sometimes with black silk. These cloaks are made in various shapes, such as the paletot, burnous, coat, and long jacket, not quite tightly fitting at the waist. They are suitable for morning wear and for traveling, as, being of a light colour, they do not show the dust. The double cape, as its name implies, consists of two pelerines, one larger than the other, and trimmed with rows of ribbon put on quite straight, or with crossway pieces of black silk stitched on with white silk.

SHAWLS are now the favourite out-door garment, made of cachemire, or fine French merino, and are trimmed with lace, or are handsomely embroidered. The upper point is sometimes trimmed with insertion only, and the lower one with a deep row of lace. Three bands of silk, cut on the crossway of the stuff and neatly stitched on, form, with the row of lace, a very pretty trimming to these elegant articles of costume. Those made of cachemire will be replaced in the warmer weather by grenadine, also trimmed or embroidered in the same manner.

We will give two or three SLEEVES suitable for ordinary dresses:- 1. A bishop sleeve, with a narrow wristband. 2. A bishop sleeve, the fullness gathered in to a band the length of the arm, this band being shown on the upper part of the sleeve, and also finished off by a narrow wristband. 3. A sleeve perfectly tight to the elbow, and finished off at the top with two puffings and a trimming to correspond with that on the dress. A grey mohair is very pretty made with two fluted flounces at the bottom of the skirt, headed by a band of lilac or mauve ribbon. The body should be plain and buttoned with lilac silk buttons, and all round it a narrow row of pleated ribbon of the same colour. For morning or breakfast dresses there is nothing so pretty as a white pique or marcella, made with a small loose jacket, and trimmed with a coloured washing material of some bright colour. For those who wear print dresses, a full body and bishop sleeve is the best and neatest mode of making them; and the sleeve may or may not be made with two puffs at the top, whichever is most liked. As these dresses are continually being washed, they cannot be too simply made; and tight sleeves and plain tight bodices seldom fit nicely after they have been through the laundress's hands. Muslin dresses also look better made with full bodices than anything else, but of these we hope to speak more next month, as the weather will not yet permit of such light materials being worn.

STRAW HATS, which in large towns are only worn by children, or very young girls, will be universally worn in the country, and at the seaside. A straw hat, as worn by the Empress in one of her portraits, has a broad, turned-down brim, is trimmed with a large bouquet of field flowers, and a black velvet bow, the ends of which fall on the shoulders. The Tudor, or hat with broad, turned-up brim, will be worn of a rather more elongated shape than it was last summer: it is made in every variety of straw, grey, brown, black, and white.

White crepe BONNETS. trimmed with black velvet, and fruit and flowers, are being generally worn in Paris for very stylish toilets; the favourite colours besides are violet, lilac, and green. For ordinary purposes, and for walking, there is nothing more suitable, at this season of the year, than straw bonnets, which are trimmed with black and white, violets, &c. Bonnets with straw fronts and soft silk crowns are very general, like the following, which was considered a very pretty spring bonnet:- The front was of rice straw, with a soft, baggy crown of mauve silk; and where the silk and straw joined was covered with a full wreath of violets; the bandeau inside was also composed of the same flowers.

Black lace, and black figured and spotted net, are much used in bonnet trimmings this spring. We have also noticed the crowns of many straw bonnets covered with a full, loose crown of black net, with ruched ribbon or flowers round it.

The shape of bonnets on the top is somewhat flatter than it was; but there is very little alteration in the size of them, for apparently they are worn as large as ever.

Little COIFFURES of ruched black lace, mixed with poppies, roses, and cornflowers, are still worn, with a black velvet bow and long ends behind.

CORONETS in black or coloured velvet continue in vogue, and are still fashionable, with a mixture of gold, although this will soon be too general to be considered veryrecherche

To those of you who require MOURNING TOILETS, perhaps the following suggestions may be useful: - a black crinoline bonnet, trimmed inside and out with branches of black lilac; with this bonnet, a black barege or grenadine dress, with very tiny flounces, and a shawl of the same material, would be very suitable. For slighter mourning, a black silk dress with five narrow flounces at the bottom, edged with lilac silk; a black silk mantle, trimmed with lace, and a pelerine; and a white tulle, or crepe bonnet, bound with black velvet, trimmed outside with a black and white rosette, or a bunch of black and white feathers, and inside with a bandeau of violets.

As all skirts are made so full and long, CRINOLINE is more necessary than ever, to give the dresses a proper appearance. The favourite crinolines appear to be made of very narrow steels fastened together by small metal claws; the pieces of stay-binding on which the steels are supported being passed through these pieces of metal, so securing them in their proper place. These skirts are very strong and durable. Those with wider steels, run in open net, are very comfortable, but do not keep their shape so long as the crinolines just mentioned.

KID GLOVES, with double buttons, are considered better than those with single ones, for summer wear, as they protect the wrist from getting sunburnt. Light and delicate colours ahould always be worn with a very recherche toilet.

June

The change in the weather happily suggests to those who have not already prepared their summer clothing topurchase dresses, mantles, "&"c., of light material. Dressmakers and milliners are all very busy making garments for the country or sea-side, as also many elegant muslin dresses, the naufacture of which is, we think, more beautiful, and the designs more charming, than we have ever seen them.

BAREGE and MUSLIN DRESSES are generally trimmed with narrow flounces or puffings, or both of these. Many fancy dresses, such as mohair, poil de chevre "&"c., are made with one narrow plain silk flounces at the bottom of the skirt, and bound with the same material as the dress. We have noticed that a great number of bodies are made with lappels, (revers) and the sleeves large, with turned-back cuffs to correspond.

The skirt of a very pretty blue and white ORGANDIE was made with puffings nearly to the waist, with a low body and puffed berthe; and the sleeves, reaching to the elbow, made with puffings of organdie and net placed alternately. A white sash with long ends, trimmed with ruched blue silk, completed this toilet, which would be suitable for dinner or for une petite soiree. A lilac and white muslin dress was made with nine narrow flounces, put on in three sections; the bottom flounce of every three being made wider than the other two, and the three top flounces finished off with a heading. A black lace shawl, or one of the black grenadine trimmed with lace, or a white muslin scarf, might be worn with this dress.

A beautiful lilac SILK DRESS, brocaded with black Maltese crosses, was made with an open body and lappels, and a full sleeve with a turned-back cuff. A very thin barege dress was trimmed at the bottom of the skirt with five narrow gauffered flounces, each flounce being made with a heading, and put on at a distance of 1 1/2" from each other.

A grey and brown POIL DE CHEVRE DRESS was trimmed at the bottom of the skirt with a reverse pleating; the top and bottom of the sleeves were trimmed in the same manner, and the body was made a' gilet -- that is to say buttoned at the top, and with two points at the bottom. A white and striped silk dress was trimmed at the bottom of the skirt with three mauve pinked flounces, which were carried up the front on each side en tablier. The sleeves were made with a wristband and puffed from the bottom to the top, the puffs increasing in size towards the upper part of the arm. The body was plain, and with it was worn a sash of the same material as the dress, each end of the sash being trimmed with two mauve silk frills of the same colour as the flounces of the skirt. For a neglige', in-door dress, white or figured pique is very much worn, made in one piece behind, and pleated in front. The sleeves should be made full with revers, and trimmed with large white buttons.

We noticed a ROBE DE CHAMBRE, the other day, of grey poil de chevre, which seemes very suitable for a convalescent, it being made large everywhere, and giving absolute liberty to every movement. It was made with shoulder-pieces cut out in the shape of a pelerine, pointed behind, and with square corners in front. The shoulder-pieces were trimmed with brown ribbon put lengthwise; the skirt was ornamental to correspond down the front, and round the top of the hem. A narrow waistband, with a double point in front, was made of poil de chevre, and a little pouch, trimmed with brown, was fastened to the waistband with a button. The sleeves were made with a scalloped turned-back cuff; the scallops being bound with brown ribbon, and each one fastened down by a brown button. Plain white muslin dresses may be made with with one narrow flounce at the bottom of the skirt, with a puffing over this, or with a heading trimmed with narrow lace; or with three flounces, the two bottom ones being put on all round the skirt, and the upper one carried up each side of the waist,, with a series of narrow flounces between,en tablier , a la Louis XV. With the low body a black or white lace fichu might be worn; or a little pelerine made of white muslin, and trimmed to correspond with the skirt, would look very neat and pretty. There are two kinds of sleeves, both of which are suitable for this dress; one is made with two puffings at the top, and narrow frills at the botton, and the other composed entirely of puffings, with a frill between each puff.

A very pretty little PELERINE, to wear with a low body, may be made of plain net or muslin covered with narrow tucks; it should be made pointed behind, with ends crossing in front, and trimmed round the neck with a ruching of narrow lace, and outside with two rows of wider lace. The sleeves to wear with this pelerine should be made, to correspond, with two puffings at the top, and a deep frill with a series of narrow tucks, finished off by a double row of broad lace.

In many of our first houses we have remarked a very pretty novelty for wearing over low bodies. It consists of a piece of velvet, not narrower than an inch, tacked together at equal distances, forming squares, and is pointed, both behind and before. Sometimes white or black net is placed underneath the velvet, and sometimes a fullness of net is gathered in to the top row, and drawn with a narrow velvet round the neck.

For summer wear, SCARFS seem likely to be in favour again. LACE MANTLES, with or without a mixture of silk, and some of these over a coloured silk, will also be worn.

As we said last month, there is nothing so elegant as the SHAWLS which are now so fashionable. They are trimmed with lace, and some of them are bordered with crossway pieces of coloured silk, covered with lace insertion. These are made in all colours, but the favourite shade appears to be lilac, while others are embroidered in silk and jet, "&"c. A PARDESSUS we noticed last week was composed of bands of silk and lace insertion, the silk being finished off at the top and bottom by a narrow lace. Two deep rows of handsome black lace completed this mantle, which may be made in a variety of colours. The one we have just described was made of grey silk, and formed part of a mourning toilet. Another mantle was entirely white, covered with white ruches and black lace; another, black, of a round shape, was trimmed with straw and black lace. Grenadine mantles are being made, pleated in at the back; these pleats being fastened by a bow of ribbon placed between each one. Large black silk jackets are still very much worn, and are corded with white or coloured silk; these jackets or basquines may be tightly fitted to the figure or not. Some of them are finished off with a round collar, some with a pointed collar, others with a lace pelerine. One of the last-named jackets, made to fit tightly to the figure, was trimmed at the bottom with three white ruches covered with black lace, and the pelerine was formed of rows of insertion with white silk underneath. The PALETOT is the favorite shape for light cloth cloaks for sea-side and country wear; and for traveling, the large BURNOUS will continue to be worn, as, being made without sleeves, it is so easily thrown over garments.

July

Our best dressmakers and milliners have now created many summer toilets, destined for fetes, for the country, for traveling, and for the sea-side. In Paris, now the weather is settled, nothing but light and airy dresses are seen; and the Exposition des Beaux Arts being open, one meets hundreds of elegantly-dressed ladies in the Champs Elysees. The following are a few of the toilets which we noticed:--

A grey and white striped silk dress, trimmed at the bottom with two black ruches, put on the skirt with a space between each; a large black silk coat, not tightly fitting to the figure, with lappels in front; and a white crinoline bonnet, trimmed with black lace, and a half-wreath of white roses and heliotrope.

Another lady had on a lilac dress, trimmed at the bottom with black velvet, put on in squares, crossed by bands of lilac ribbon, and fastened at intervals by bows of the same; a large Chantilly lace shawl; and a puffed tulle bonnet, having outside small lilac marabout feathers, and inside a bandeau of roses.

Another toilet consisted of a brocaded green silk dress, with a long sash, edged with narrow black lace; a tulle bonnet, trimmed in the front with a puff of tulle, covered with very narrow black velvet, a tulle curtain trimmed in the same manner, and bunches of roses inside and out. A black Spanish lace mantle completed this toilet.

We also noticed a mauve silk dress, with three narrow flounces corded with white; a mantle of the same colour as the dress was trimmed with lilac and white ruches alternately; and the bonnet was of white rice straw, trimmed with field flowers and long grass.

Another violet-coloured silk dress was finished off at the top of the hem with a broad piece of black Maltese lace insertion, and was worn with a black lace shawl and a white cr�pe bonnet, trimmed with white and coloured lilac.

A brown silk dress had one deep black silk flounce at the bottom of the skirt, headed by six very narrow pinked brown flounces. Over this dress was a black silk jacket, trimmed with a pointed lace pelerine; and the bonnet which completed this toilet was of black crinoline, trimmed inside and out with tufts of blue cornflowers.

Returning to London, we may refer to the dress of a titled lady whom we saw descending from her carriage, at the opening of the Horticultural Gardens. She had on a grey silk dress, brocaded with a grey of a darker shade, and which was made with quite a train behind. She wore over it a white embroidered cachemire shawl, trimmed with two deep rows of black lace; and with it a white cr�pe bonnet, the curtain of which was composed of white tulle, covered with a broad blonde, put on to form a point behind. In the middle of this point there was a bunch of black grapes; and outside the was a bunch of the same fruit, mixed with tiny white feathers and bows of ponceau ribbon; the bandeau consisted of black grapes and small white feathers, placed across a piece of ponceau velvet.

Grenadine DRESSES, speckled, plain, or figured, are now worn more than anything else for the warm weather, excepting muslins, which are always the favourite summer dress. The grenadine dresses are often made with long broad sashes of the same material, which are bound with narrow coloured silk, to match the pattern of the dress.

A black grenadine dress, spotted with groseille, was trimmed at the bottom of the skirt with one deep flounce, which was finished off at the top with a groseille silk ruche. The body of the dress was trimmed to correspond.

We noticed two black and white grenadine dresses intended for two young ladies in deep mourning. This skirts were trimmed at the bottom with a crossway flounce about twelve inches in depth, bound with black silk; and this flounce was headed with three very narrow flounces (also crossway), bound with black silk in the same manner. The bodies were made open in the front, with lappels of black silk; the sleeves large and full at the top, with pointed cuffs of black silk; and the waistbands of black silk were made pointed behind and before. A piers of double white tarlatane or cr�pe was tacked in round the neck and down the front of the dresses as far as they opened, to form tuckers, and a piece of the same was tacked into the wristbands of the sleeves.

The following is a simple and elegant toilet for half-mourning:-A black and white checked silk dress, with one deep flounce of black silk at the bottom of the skirt, with a gauffered heading; a black silk coat; and a straw bonnet, trimmed with ruches of black lace and black and white feathers.

A barege and a grenadine dress, which were intended for a lady going to the sea-side, were made in the following manner:-The first, of speckled grey barege, was made with a deep gauffering at the bottom of the skirt, edged with blue, and headed by a band of blue silk to match. The skirt was ornamented with blue buttons, edged with white; and the body was plain, rather short-waisted, and trimmed with blue, and a broad blue ribbon sash. With this dress, a large white burnouse was to be worn, trimmed with black velvet. The other, of brocaded grenadine, was made with five very narrow gauffered flounces, edged at the top nod bottom with cerise-coloured silk; the body low, and over it a little fichu, with frills made to cross in front; the edge of the frills being trimmed with narrow white Maltese lace. A black silk sash, with long bows and ends, embroidered with cerise, and a scarf of the same material as the dress, with two narrow gauffered frills all round the scarf and on the lappels, completed this toilet; with a black tulle bonnet, trimmed inside and out with cerise-coloured flowers and black lace.

La robe Beatrix- which has been, and is still, a great success- is made with one deep flounce at the bottom of the skirt, caught up en each side by large rosettes of pinked silk. The flounce is usually finished off with a band of coloured silk to match the rosettes. This dress had a very good effect made in black grenadine, dotted with gold boss. We also saw it in plain black barege; the large rosettes which caught up the flounce being made of black silk; and, instead of the band of silk, a puffing of barege was substituted for it at the top of the flounce.

Two very pretty muslin dresses-one pink and white, and the other blue and white- for two young ladies residing in the environs of Paris, were very prettily made, and very suitable for the hot weather. They were both made exactly alike, with plain skirts with rather a broad hem. The bodies were low, and trimmed at the top with a double insertion of Valenciennes lace, and round the waist with blue and white, or pink and white, sashes, fastened by a large gold buckle. With these bodies, a little pelerine trimmed with frills edged with narrow Valenciennes lace might be worn or not, at pleasure.

A pale grey or drab silk dress looks very pretty, trimmed at the bottom of the skirt with a flounce about fourteen inches deep, and on this flounce bands of lace insertion put on in squares, and some insertion to match placed along the top of the flounce. The body should be trimmed with lace insertion to correspond. Also a black grenadine dress, with tiny bouquets of flowers, with a deep flounce and a ruche at the top, headed by three very narrow flounces, put on in vandykes, has a very good effect. This dress might be made with a low body, and a fichu a la Marie Antoinette, with ends to cross in front underneath the sash, which should be embroidered at the ends to match the sash.

Long SASHES, which are usually an accompaniment to dressy toilets, are generally worn fastened at the side, and are made with long bows; they are also frequently worn crossed in the front, but with no bows, and are fastened with a buckle. Sometimes, too, sashes are worn with ends crossing behind as well as in front but the ends are then much shorter.

A grey and white shot-silk dress, brocaded with black, was made a la Princesse, body and skirt in one. The skirt was trimmed quite at the bottom with a gauffered green ribbon, and bows of the same, with ends were placed up the trout of the skirt and body, the bows being trimmed with narrow black lace.

The Empress Eugenie, in one of her visits to the Bois de Boulogne, accompanied by the Emperor, was dressed, as is her wont, in the most charming but simple manner. Her dress was of white silk, with brown squares, trimmed at the bottom with a broad pleating of brown silk. She wore an embroidered black silk mantle, trimmed with lace, and a straw bonnet with no trimming but a straw cord and tassel outside, and inside a bandeau of roses, flowers which she very seldom wears. Her petticoats were very light, but stood out a great deal; and following her example, all the Paris ladies are wearing their skirts very wide and ample-a pleasant and agreeable fashion for the warm weather; so there is nothing yet to lead one to suppose that crinolines are disappearing. Indeed, the use of the steels of which they are composed is being extended to another purpose besides petticoats, and we have now crinolines for our arms. Under-sleeves made in the same manner as the petticoats, small at the wrist, and increasing in size towards the middle of the arm, and diminishing again towards the upper part, are being manufactured. They are quite a novelty, and are likely to prove a vary useful invention for keeping large puffed net and muslin sleeves from getting rumpled, which they are very likely to do under the large shawls and mantles which are so much worn.

Large JACKETS, both tight and loose, although not one of this year's introduction, are, perhaps, more worn than any other shape, only that they are made with lappels in front, instead of being fastened to the throat. Lace shawls and lace mantles, embroidered cachemire shawls trimmed with lace or guipure, white and black grenadine shawls, are all in favor for dressy toilets.

MANTLES like the dresses are also very much worn, and are generally trimmed with frills bound with a coloured silk of the same shade as that which trims the dress with which it is worn. Nothing can be nicer than this mode.

We noticed some very pretty black grenadine SHAWLS, embroidered only on the small pleat which falls over the large one. One of these shawls was trimmed all round with a piece of crossway lilac silk, and embroidered in silk on the small point with branches of fuchsias in lilac. A white cachemire shawl was braided in an arabesque pattern in black all round, and on the small point a rich design, nearly filling up the corner. This article was exceedingly distingue.

Braiding in black on white pique or marcella is very fashionable for the country or sea-side, for morning dresses. A morning dress of this material, braided down the front of the skirt, or round the hem, with black braid, looks very stylish. We saw one of these dresses made for a very elegant lady, with a Zouave jacket, braided up the front, round the bottom, and on the sleeves to match the skirt. A clear muslin chemisette with a braided trimming, and a small collar with braided ends, completed this toilet. The back of the jacket was made to draw and undraw at pleasure.

In Paris, many soirees have been given lately, and seem likely to continue until people take their departure for the country or sea side. A musical and dramatic soiree took place the other day at the Court de Morny's, and chez le Ministre d'Etat. The mistress of the house, Madame de Walewski, who did the honours very gracefully, wore gold wheatears in her hair, a white muslin dress, trimmed very profusely with white lace, and looped up with cerise-coloured ribbon. A young lady present also wore a very thin white gauze dress, with very narrow flounces and puffings on the skirt, the puffings being arranged over a very delicate pink silk. Bows of very pale pink were placed at intervals round the skirt over the puffings. The body y was low, and trimmed with a pointed berthe ornamented in front with a large bouquet of pale pink roses. A wreath of rosebuds and leaves completed this toilet, admirably arranged with the young lady's light hair, which was worn very much frizzed.

The round turned-up HATS are, as we predict now being replaced by these of the bell shape, as protecting the face more from the sun. They are much worn in fine plain white straw, trimmed with black velvet, and black, white, or coloured feathers. Children's hats are made very prettily this season, in all kinds of shapes, and trimmed in a variety of ways. One we saw, intended for a little girl six years old, was made ornamented at the edges with a trimming of gauffered straw, with a bunch of blue and white feathers in front.

BONNETS for dressy wear are made in tulle, crepe of all colours, crinoline, and white chip. We will notice a few charming chapeaux we have seen this summer:-

A while tulle bonnet, with a chip front, trimmed with lilac and white feathers.

Another, of puffed tulle, with a large tulle rosette on the top, mixed with rosebuds; a large rose forming the centre of the rosette. The bandeau of this bonnet was made of puffed tulle, with a large rose quite in the centre, and rosebuds on either side.

Another of spotted tulle, drawn over a tight shape, trimmed all round the front with artificial fruit; and another of white chip, trimmed with rosebuds and leaves.

For a quiet-looking toilet:- A rice-straw bonnet, with a black silk curtain, edged at the top and bottom with green; the bonnet trimmed with green and black ribbon, and a bandeau of black grapes mixed with violets and bows of green ribbon.

Rose-colour and blue are pretty. We saw a white chip bonnet, trimmed with rosebuds and forget-me-nots; and one of puffed tulle, with a long blue feather, fastened by a bunch of rosebuds. A bunch of rosebuds and a shorter feather formed the bandeau; the buds being placed on the left-hand side, and the feather carried across the forehead.

PARASOLS are generally worn of a plain shape, without any trimming, and are rather large. Amongst the novelties in this way we may mention a large plain white ombrelle, lined with white-the outside being embroidered with a chain-stitch in gold, and the top of the stick ornamented with a tiny gold apple and gold cords and tassels. The sun-shades and ombrelles-or, as the French call them, Les entous-cas-which are made large enough to serve as an umbrella as well as a parasol, are also extremely useful for traveling. For the country, or for the sea-side, green is the best colour to select for a useful ombrelle, being more comfortable to the eyes than any other shade.

DESCRIPTION OF THE COLOURED PLATE.

1. Summer Toilet.-The bonnet, of white crepe, is trimmed with a bunch of white feathers tipped with mauve, placed on the top of the bonnet, with mauve-coloured flowers for the bandeau, and very broad plain white strings. The mantle, of black silk, is trimmed with three broad lace flounces, and is worn very much off the shoulders. Each row of lace is headed by silk ruches, five inches of dark mauve and five inches of light mauve alternately, to match the colours on the bottom of the dress. The dress is of light mauve-coloured silk, with a plain body, short waist, and sash of dark mauve silk. The bottom of the skirt, to the depth of half a yard, is trimmed with puffings of light and dark silk placed alternately and in a slanting direction as shown in the plate, with a thick cording of the light silk between each row of puffs.

2. Summer Toilets, Suitable for a Fete or Pic-nic.-The hat is made of fine plain white straw, is bound with rose-coloured silk, and has a bow in front and two long ends behind. A long white ostrich feather is fastened in the bow covers the left aide of the hat, and falls behind. The dress is of clear book muslin, worn over a pink silk petticoat. The body is made open in front, with a pulling of muslin round the neck, edged by a plainly-hemmed muslin frill; a piece of ribbon is run in the puffing, finished off by a bow short ends. The sleeve is plain to the elbow, where it terminates with a puffing and deep muslin frill. This frill is sloped, and should be made longer at the back of the arm than in the front; it is also trimmed with a bow and short ends, whilst a sash with long ends completes the body at the waist. The skirt is trimmed at the bottom with five hemmed flounces, each one three inches deep, with a tiny puffing of muslin to finish off the top flounces. In making this dress, let the flounces be as full again as the skirt, to allow for gauffering. If made scantier the flounces will not gauffer properly.

August

THE fine weather, which seems to have set in for some time, encourages our dressmakers and milliners to keep producing their charming summer toilets, consisting of grenadine, barege, muslin dresses, and the innumerable light materials which are so suitable for the warm weather. Great preparations are also being made for sea-side toilets, as nearly everybody is thinking of leaving town. Many important weddings have taken place; and these, of course, have necessitated the production of many elegant trousseaux.

A very pretty toilet we saw prepared for an elegant young lady going to the sea-side consisted of a white muslin dress, with three narrow flounces at the bottom, the flounces being embroidered and scalloped at the edges. A puffing of muslin, with pink ribbon run in, was put between each flounce, so as to form a kind of heading. The body was made high, with a low lining; and the sleeves, which were very large, were finished off at the top with a puffing of muslin over pink, and a frill of embroidery to match the flounces on the skirt. The mantle was made of the same material as the dress, and trimmed with puffings and embroidery. This elegant but simple toilet, which would be very suitable for a pic-nic or f�te, was completed by a rice-straw bonnet, trimmed with rosebuds and leaves.

During the stay of the Empress at Fontainebleau, she, and some of the ladies who accompanied her, adopted some very pretty and original fancy costumes. They wore their dresses looped up over striped silk petticoats of very bright colours, with leather gaiters, and small turned-up white straw hats, with black and white rosettes, or tufts. One of the ladies wore a sailor's costume, consisting of a small straw hat, with a straight brim, and a jacket embroidered with anchors.

A bride's dress we noticed the other day was made of white moirŽ antique, with one deep lace flounce at the bottom of the skirt, looped up on each side with bows of white ribbon. This dress was made with two bodies; the low one with a berthe made of puffings of tulle mixed with ribbon; and the high one trimmed with a broad lace to match that on the skirt.

Another bride's dress, very elegant, but much more simple than this, was composed of very clear white muslin, with nine very narrow flounces at the bottom of the skirt, each flounce having a heading, and trimmed at the top and bottom with narrow Valenciennes lace. The body was low, and covered with a little pointed pelerine, formed of puffings of muslin between lace insertion; the sleeves were puffed from the shoulder to the wrist, and the cuff was formed of a puffing between two pieces of insertion.

We will now enumerate a few of the dresses which formed part of the trousseaux of these brides:-

A light blue dress, with six flounces at the bottom of the skirt; three of them being continued up the front, apron fashion, as far as the waist. The body low, and made with a berthe composed of rows of white lace and rushes of blue silk placed alternately.

A Magenta silk, brocaded in black, made with a broad sash, embroidered to correspond.

A grey silk dress, made with a flounce running up on every seam between the breadths.

Another grey silk dress, made with a very full skirt, and a demi-train behind, had one pinked flounce at the bottom of the skirt, and over the flounce a band of blue silk corded on both sides. A little distance above this, another band of silk was put on in large points; and above the silk again was a very narrow grey silk flounce. The sleeves were trimmed with bands of blue, and narrow grey silk frills; and the body was made open in the front, with blue lappels.

A violet-coloured silk dress, which was also made with two bodies, bad a deep black lace flounce at the bottom of the skirt, headed by a lace ruche; and the high body, open in the front with lappels, was trimmed with rushes of lace, as also were the sleeves.

For an evening dress, the low body was trimmed with black lace and rushes of violet- coloured silk; and over the skirt a black lace tunic was to be worn, reaching to the top of the flounce; the tunic, of course, made of the same lace se the flounce. This dress would be extremely stylish made in Napoleon blue silk, and trimmed with white instead of black lace.

A pale green silk ball dress was trimmed at the bottom of the skirt with three puffings of tarlatane, and at the top of these a row of white Maltese lace, then two more puffings, and again another row of lace put on in points, the last headed by another puffing of tarlatane. This skirt looks remarkably well in any colour, and is very easily made.

A pink and white checked bar�ge dress was trimmed at the bottom with three narrow fluted flounces bound with pick silk; the body was low, and was worn with a fichu to match, trimmed with two narrow frills at the bottom. This style of dress would answer two purposes- it would be suitable for a walking dress with the fichu or pelerine, and for evening wear with the low body trimmed with a pretty berthe.

A speckled black and white barege was ornamented at the bottom of the skirt with a broad pleating of black silk placed just above be hem. The body was open, and made with lappels, which were trimmed all round with narrow lace and black buttons.

Amongst some lingerie prepared trousseau, we noticed some articles made in t neatest and most finished manner. A white muslin wrapper was trimmed up the front with a broad band of insertion on each side, and was made with a small lace collar and very large sleeves. Another was made with a trimming up the front of insertion and small tucks, placed alternately, and a piece of work on each side of the insertion. This wrapper was made with closed sleeves, with a narrow wristband and turned- back cuff in embroidery.

DRESSES of white pique continue to be worn more than any other material for negligee costume. They are very suitable for the country or sea side, and are generally made with Zouave jackets and waistcoats of the same material as the dress. These pique dresses are also worn braided in white or black, some being designed on each side of the skirt to imitate an aumoniere, or pouch, which has lately been so fashionable. These garments are also designed for braiding in medallions, which have a very good effect done in black braid.

Amongst the PETTICOATS for a trousseau we noticed a very pretty one made of very fine Swiss cambric, and trimmed at the bottom with two deep of plain cambric scalloped at the edges; these frills, when the petticoat is washed, should, of course, be gauffered; and the garment might be made more elaborate by having a series of very narrow tucks over the gauffered frills.

We also remarked some very pretty CHEMISES, trimmed with lace and insertion; petticoat bodies very elaborately trimmed; and nightdresses, the sleeves of which were made with turned-back cuffs, and just sufficiently large for the hand to slip through, so avoiding the necessity of buttons and button-holes.

CHEMISETTES, which are now so much worn with open bodies, are made in muslin, embroidered puffed net, mixed with narrow insertion, and very narrow black ribbon velvet.

COLLARS and SLEEVES for dressy wear are now being made in the most charming manner, with lace and muslin insertion mixed, and edged with lace. Narrow ribbon velvet, both coloured and black, is introduced in most of these collars and sleeves. The latter are generally made with a pointed cuff of lace and insertion, with two full net puffs placed above the cuff, with loops of very narrow velvet placed at intervals over the puffings.

The little FICHUS and PELERINES, which are so useful as they make so much variety in dress, still continue in great favour, and are particularly comfortable wear for the warm weather.

The favourite shape for HATS seems to be that with a turned-down brim, although many may be seen with the broad turned-up brim in front, and with a long point behind. White straw are more generally worn than coloured ones, and are trimmed with black velvet and white feathers. For very stylish wear, Tuscan hats, trimmed with artificial wild flowers, have appeared; but these, we need scarcely say, require a very dressy toilet, or they would look absurd.

MANTLES and CLOAKS of very light summer cloth are the favourite garments the seaside; many are also made in a silky kind of alpaca-a very nice material for wear, as it is unaffected by rain, and does not crease or tumble. For these reasons it is admirably suited for traveling dresses and cloaks. Muslin mantles and shawls, trimmed with insertion and very narrow gauffered frills, have had a great success during the very warm weather; and white grenadine shawls, trimmed with black lace, and black lace squares, have been very universal-particularly the latter, as they are suitable for simple or dressy toilets. Some very elegant evening cloaks are being made in white grenadine and white cachemire, or very fine French merino, and trimmed with black velvet and black lace.

We will notice one or two which our readers may easily make at home from the description, provided they get a good pattern to cut them out from.

One of white grenadine was bound at the edges with ribbon velvet, trimmed with six rows of narrow black velvet, over these a broad piece of black lace, and again six rows of velvet; the effect of this trimming was exceedingly elegant.

Another, more simple, was made in the burnouse shape, of white cachemire or grenadine, bound with black velvet, and trimmed with three rows of narrow black lace, and three rows of narrow black velvet, placed alternately.

The "Colleen Bawn" cloak, which is made with a large cape caught up in the middle of the back with two large rosettes, is alas very pretty, composed of white grenadine. We noticed one of these, very simple, but very pretty; it was quite plain, with the exception of the binding, which was of black velvet, and the only trimming behind consisted of two large full velvet rosettes.

Small silk CRAVATS, embroidered at the ends, and trimmed with lace, are much in favour for the small stand-up collars; WRISTLETS made of ribbon to match the colour of the dress with which they are worn, are also very generally adopted. These are trimmed with lace. The Medici ceinture, made of black velvet, and pointed behind and before, may be seen in all our first west-end houses; and, although not quite new, appears to be as great a favourite as ever, it has the advantage of being rather economical, as it may be worn with any coloured dress, and with all kinds of material.

The little straw FANS, mixed with ribbon in a variety of colours, are now much used; and, in the hands of a graceful young lady, have a very charming effect. The silk, or material with which the straw is mixed, should either contrast prettily, or be of the same shade as the dress with which it is worn. Mr. Rimmel, of the Strand, London, has a large assortment of these fans, which may be purchased at a very cheap rate-from 1s.; so that a pretty and useful little article may be obtained at a merely nominal cost.

Gimp is now one of the most fashionable trimmings for dresses, and is manufactured in a variety of designs and colours. A novelty in this way has just appeared, consisting of silk buttons, edged with vandykes of narrow chain gimp; the buttons being held together as a trimming by a small gimp chain connecting one with the other. The buttons may be made in any coloured silk to match that of the dress which it is intended to trim. We can recommend it as being very light and pretty; and it is suitable for mantles as well as dresses. It may be purchased of Mr. Hill, 121, Oxford-street, who has just brought out this novelty.

DESCRIPTION OF THE COLOURED PLATE.

1. TOILETTE HABILLEE.- The bonnet is made of white embroidered tulle, drawn in the front, and with a plain crown; the curtain is made of tulle, over stiff net, and is covered at the bottom with a row of black lace. The bonnet is trimmed at the top with a bow of cerise ribbon, in which two ostrich feathers are fastened-one falling on the right side, and the other on the left. The bandeau is composed of cerise flowers, to match the ribbon on the out side, and the strings are of broad white ribbon. In this toilet both the dress and shawl are made of the same material, grey and white chine grenadine. The body of the dress is made open in the front, trimmed with a black silk ruche and a white silk ruche, finished off with a piece of broad lace. With this body a net or embroidered muslin chemisette, made with a narrow collar, should be worn. The waistband is of black silk, with a black and white bow in the centre. The sleeve consists of one large puff, and is finished off at the bottom with two ruches, one black and one white, which are made just large enough for the hand to slip through. The skirt in very pretty, and is trimmed with two ruches (black and white), forming a heading to the black lace flounce; whilst below the lace four black and white ruches, placed alternately, make a pretty finish to the bottom of the skirt. We need scarcely say that this skirt should be gored, to throw it out at the bottom, and make it hang grace fully.

2. TRAVELLING DRESS.- The hat is of fine white straw, and is trimmed with a large black velvet bow in front, and with a black and white feather on each side. The dress and cloak are made of the same material-light brown or drab alpaca-and trimmed with dark brown ribbon, or bands of brown silk. A small green cravat should be worn with this dress, and a plain stitched stand-up collar. A broad bend of brown silk might be put on the bottom of the skirt, which would make a pretty finish to it. The material of which the dress is composed is a kind of superior silky alpaca. It shines in the sun with a lustre like that of shot-silk.