Gotham Patterns: Hair

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How to prepare your hair to achieve the best period style for the American Civil War, c. 1860-65

Regardless of what cut you may have now, it is very important to prepare your hair correctly to achieve the period look. Take a look in your bathroom. What do you see? Gels, mousse, hairspray. Victorian women had similar products and used them for many of the same reasons we do. You can divide the hair treatments into two basic categories: Oils and Pomades. Oils were used to give that period shine, while pomades were used for extra-strength hold. Period articles indicate that which type a person used was a matter of personal preference, and were not necessarily used at the same time.

Oils: If you are squeamish about using period recipes, or would just like to save money, regular kitchen oils will do nicely. I have experimented with many different types of oil, all available at a grocery store or health food store, and really haven't noticed any differences. I have tried olive oil, canola, sunflower, and almond. Almond is recommended, because it is light and odorless. I scent mine with a small amount of lavender oil. Better yet, make your own oil using a period recipe.

Pomades/Pomatums: Homemade period pomades were usually made with a base of fat or wax like lard or spermaceti. Spermaceti is impossible to buy, although jojoba esters is a good substitute, and lard can be difficult to find. If you are unable to make your own pomade, use a scentless or naturally scented hair wax like Aveda Control Paste.

How To Apply: If possible, apply the oil a day ahead of time to let it soak in. I find the hair to be much more manageable this way. Use enough to coat each hair lightly, but not dripping. You will probably need less than you think. I use about two cupped handfuls for my hair, which is thin and to my waist. After it has soaked in you can add more as needed.

Pomade should be applied anywhere you need hold. Use sparingly, as you don't want to glop it up. I concentrate it at the part, sides, and tips. As with anything, you will need to experiment to find what works best for your hair type.

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A Basic Style

The instructions are written for medium to long hair, without bangs. For short, layered, or bangs, please see Hair FAQs This style, slightly modified for circumstance, could be suitable for every day wear, as well as evening, and for women aged 16 to old age. image

  • Step One: image Using a fine toothed comb, split your hair into three parts. Make a part down the top center of your head, and the other two from the crown to about an inch behind either ear. Pin the front two sections away for now
  • Step Two: image Create a chignon at the back of your head, either coiled or braided. If needed, you can secure the ends with pomade, or tie a strand of hair or a piece of thread around them. Pin into place. Older women can place this chignon higher, while younger women should have it at the nape, or lower.
  • Step Three: image The next part requires a bit of maneuvering. Lift up the hair above the ear and pin a rat in place. This can be a sausage shape for a long roll, or a round one for a wider puff. Starting at the top front, coil your hair under, towards your face. Try to keep the roll as close to your face as possible, covering any roots. Continue this roll over the rat, covering your ears, and down past your ear lobe. Bring the coil over or under the chignon and pin in place, hiding the ends.
  • image The finished hairstyle.
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By Way of Example...

Photographs, Engravings, and other visual aids for the study of hair, c. 1860-65.

  • Image: This girl is wearing beautiful matching combs on either side of her forhead. Her hair is left down and in long curls. Courtesy of Greg McMahon
  • Image: O.G. Rejlander "Study after Titian" albumen Print (c. 1857) Smith, Alison The Victorian Nude: Sexuality, morality and art. Manchester University Press, New York, 1996 pg. 59
  • Image: "a portrait of Queen Victoria by Prince Albert in pencil c. 1845" Munn, Geoffrey C. The Triumph of Love: Jewelry 1530-1930. Thames and Hudson, London, 1993
  • Image How to use a hairpiece to frame the face. Engraving courtesy of Martha McCain
  • Image 1862: A hairstyle, front and back. The sides are braided, and the back coiled and held in place with a comb. Engraving courtesy of Martha McCain
  • Image From a European text: How to crimp the hair. Probably late war time, when textured hair became more popular. Engraving courtesy of Martha McCain. An article in Godey's Lady's Book August 1859. P. 167: CRIMPER-HOW TO USE IT Upon retiring, wet the hair, and separate the tresses into convenient sizes, say six on side of the head; then take the crimper, and [---] through it close to the bend, which is placed close to the head, and bring the hair to the side and under, as shown in the engraving until the whole tress is laced; then fasten the end of the hair with the clamp which accompanies the crimper. In the morning take off the clamps, and withdraw the crimper and comb the hair lightly together with a [---] comb, and put it up in any desired form, and it will retain a most natural and beautiful wavy appearance. The form of the crimpers is such that there is not the slightest inconvenience if sleeping in them. The longest crimpers are intended for the front or longest tresses.
  • Image Peterson's, 1864. A Hairstyle, front and back. The top sections are rolled, probably over rats. The front side sections are braided, presumably with a hairpiece on each side to provide the desired thickness. Engraving courtesy of Martha McCain
  • Image c. 1855-60. This hairstyle is very similar to the one shown above. The braids appear to be what we call french-braided (inside-out) for a few strands, loosely, and then braided regularly and looped back. The back section is coiled into a chignon. Image taken from 1000 Nudes
  • Image c. 1860 A rare side view. Notice where the chignon is pinned, low on the neck, and the way that it is coiled into two layers, the upper sticking out. Image taken from 1000 Nudes
  • Image c. 1860 A rare view of the top of the head. As you can see here, the parts can be decoratively 'Y' shaped, instead of 'T'. Image taken from 1000 Nudes
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Hairstyle Variations

For Women of Different Age and Social Groups

Variations for Younger Women:

  • Image For the more fashionable, hair should be dressed low and wide.
  • Image A decorated hairnet can be worn...
  • Image...or an invisible net for average days.
  • Image There was also a small fad for very short hair- about chin length. For more information on short hair, click here.
  • Image A very few early images show women wearing their hair side-parted. This seems to have been a very rare style, and should be worn with care. It may have been a sign of rebellion. As one young woman wrote to a school friend: "I wish you could see me now with my hair parted on the side with my black velvet zouave on and pistol by my side..." (A Woman's War p. 114) There is more information on side-parted hair below.

Variations for Older Women

  • Image For women still stuck a bit in their own youth, hair can be dressed very plainly over the ears, with the chignon somewhat high in the back.
  • Image Some older women wore high curls framing the face, a style popular in the 1850s. For this style, make sure the widest part is at the cheekbone. Decorated hairnets or crowns can substitute as frills.
  • Invisible nets can be worn to keep the hair tidy, or a pretty tortishell comb in back, peeking over the top of the head.

Fashionable Intelligence Chicago Press and Tribune. Nov. 2 1858.

A new method of arranging the hair, in keeping with the style of dress now in vogue, is to comb it up from the front, and dispose it in a series of small puffs or curls on the sides; the back hair is then combed broad and smooth over a small comb in the center, and surrounded by a medium circular plait, or braid, which does not descend so low upon the neck as formerly.

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Short and Side-Parted Hair

On Women During the Civil War

Short hair was not common and reenactors are generally encouraged to grow theirs out. However, some women did have short hair. In most cases we can only guess at the reason. The three most common reasons, as far as current research has gotten (and not in any partcular order), are: 1. Fever or other sickness 2. Fashion 3. Radicalism. Evidence for all three follows:

  • Image Young woman, c. 1863-65. based on the straight-across cut of this girls hairstyle, this is probably a 'shingled' hairstyle, something trendy at the time.
  • Image Young Woman, c.1863-65 Short hair, parted in the center. This woman appears old for the trendy 'shingled' style worn most often by girls in their mid teens. No other aspect of her dress is unusual.
  • Image Tintype of a woman from the back. Late 1860s. Courtesy of Greg McMahon
  • Image c. 1865 This girl appears to be wearing a dress reform "bloomer" outfit. Her hair appears to be short and side-parted, further indication of radical ideas. Courtesy of Greg McMahon
  • Image c. 1865-70 This photograph is of a woman with short hair, and a rare side-part. This photo used with permission from Kara Bartels

Short hair was often regarded with derision, as in this quote from an 1869 book The Women of New York or The Under-World of the Great City by George Ellington:

"There was once a hydropathic or water-cure college in New York, which ground out a number of female physicians annually. At this college women wore short dresses. ...they also wore their hair cut short...or flowing down their backs; they boarded themselves and dieted on vegetables and bran bread."

Louisa May Alcott in a letter on her time nursing during the Civil War: "a nursin in the army, got typhoid fever and came bundling home to rave, and ramp, and get my head shaved and almost retire into the tombs in consequence"- As quoted by Helena Maragou, American College of Greece. "Hospital Sketches." The Literary Encyclopedia. 24 Jan. 2005. The Literary Dictionary Company. 21 May 2007. http://www.litencyc.com/php/sworks.php?rec=true"&"UID=4691

"Circular" April 2, 1857., 6, 11. pg. 44
SHORT HAIR: The ladies are always getting up some new kind in the fashions. The latest style for wearing the hair is to have it shingled off close to the head, and the school-girls now resemble bullet-headed boys in petticoats. But the fashion is not confined to school-girls. Young ladies, married ladies, and even some gray-haired ladies, are seized with the short-hair mania, and insist on having their flowing locks curtailed down to nothing. -- Hamilton Republican

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Pomatum Recipes

  • Pomatum for the Hair may be made as follows:-- Into a perfectly clean and well-tinned stew-pan, put one pint of very fresh oil of sweet almonds; set it over a slow fire, and gradually melt it in one ounce and a half of spermaceti, and two ounces of very fresh hog's lard. The heat must be barely sufficient to melt these substances, for a high temperature would make the oil rancid in a few days. The whole being melted, pour it into a china or earthenware basin; and when almost cold, stir into it whatever essential oils will communicate the perfume you prefer. Pot it off, and, when cold, tie paper over each pot. Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892); Nov 1857; VOL.XXXII., No. 5.; APS Online, pg. 365
  • Pomatum for the Hair. Take one ounce of spermaceti, one ounce of castor oil, four ounces of olive oil, and two pennyworth of bergamot, and melt them together in a pot, placed in boiling water. stirring the mixture all the time; when thoroughly mixed, pour the mixture into pots while hot.-- "Housewife's Department" Flag of Our Union; Jan 2, 1858; 13, 1; APS Online, pg. 7
  • Elder Flower Pomatum:--Take of elder flower water, four ounces; fine mutton suet, two ounces; best lard, two ounces; melt the suet and lard together, with as little heat as possible, then add the elder oil, and beat up the mixture with a fork (to make it light) till nearly cold. If agreeable, any other perfume may be added before the pomatum is set.-- "The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); Jul 1855; 51, APS Online, pg. 79
  • A Cheap Pomatum--Take a quarter of a pound of fresh lard, and about half an ounce of white wax, and twopenny-worth of rose hair oil, mix well together; this makes a good, cheap pomatum, and will not injure the hair. Instead of rose hair oil you may use a small quantity of any liquid scent you please.-- Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892) ; Oct 1858; VOL. XXXIV., No. 4.; APS Online, pg. 293
  • A Good Pomade for General Use One pound of beef suet to two pounds of lard. Care must be taken to procure them as fresh as possible. And, after being separated from all skin and fibre, they must be pounded in a mortar, and then placed in a covered pan of earthenware or metal. This must stand in a vessel of hot water until the fat slowly becomes liquid. It will be found that all the refuse will then be separated, and will sink to the bottom of the pan. The fat in its liquid state is then passed through a filter (clean flannel is the best). The perfume must now be added, and may be either essence of lemon, bergamot, or any other scent preferred; about three drachms will suffice for the quantity of fat warmed. After this, with a wooden spoon, or knife, the mixture should be continually stirred or beaten until it be thoroughly cool. Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine Oct. 1864, pg. 351
  • A Capital Pomade.-- Dissolve thoroughly over a slow fire two ounces of white wax and half an ounce of palm oil, with a flask of the best olive oil. Stir it till nearly cold; then add once ounce of castor oil and about three pennyworth of bergamot or any other perfume you please.-- Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892) ; Oct 1858; VOL. XXXIV., No. 4.; APS Online, pg. 293
  • Bandoline for the Hair: Crush the pips of the ripe quince between two pieces of paper; then put them into a tumbler of cold water to stand all night, when the water will have become glutinous and fit for use; drop into it a small quantity of spirits of wine, and a few drops of essence of rose, jasmine, or any ether perfume. Or: Take half an ounce dried quince pips, pour on them one pint of boiling water, and strain when cold. Should it not be sufficiently glutinous, boil it again, and pour over the pips a second time. Scent with rose, bergamot, or any other scent. Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine. November 1863. p. 477
  • Hair Pomatum.-- To a flask of the finest Lucca oil add an ounce and a half of spermaceti, half an ounce of white wax, and scent of any kind. Cut up the wax and spermaceti, and put it in the oven to melt with a little of the oil. When well mixed, pour in the remainder of the oil, and stir until cold: add the scent when the mixture is cool. If the hair is inclining to gray, add, by drops, a teaspoonful of balsam of Peru, taking care to stir it well in.-- "The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882) ; May 1863; 66, APS Online, pg. 486.
  • To Make Soft Pomatum.-- Beat half a pound of unsalted fresh lard in common water; then soak and beat it in two rose-waters, drain it, and beat it with two spoonfuls of brandy; let it drain from this; add to it some essence of lemon, and keep it in small pots.- Petersons 1861, p. 314
  • Receipt for Pomatum: One pint of olive oil, two ounces of white wax, one drachm of tincture of cantharides; oil of roses, two drops (or any other scent if preferred.) Put the oil in a jug, on a hob, and dissolve the wax in it, and then mix in the other ingredients; to be poured into the pots while hot. Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine October 1864, pg. 351
  • Excellent Pomade at Moderate Cost: The following receipt will furnish an excellent pomade at a moderate cost: Two ounces of castor-oil, three ounces of best olive-oil, one ounce of spermaceti. Dissolve the spermaceti in an earthen jar or pipkin over a slow fire; then add the castor and olive oils. When nearly cold, stir in a small quantity of bergamot, with a few drops of oil of cloves, cinnamon, and almond mixed.- Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine October 1864, pg. 351
  • Receipt for Pomatum: Six ounces of castor-oil, six ounces of olive-oil, four ounces of spermaceti, two drachms of oil of lavender, ten drops of oil of cinnamon, two drachms of essence of bergamot, two drachms of essence of lemon. melt the oils and sperm together, gradually warming them on the stove and keep stirring; when nearly cold add the scent.- Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine October 1864, pg. 351
  • To Make Soft Pomatum.-- Soak half a pound of clear beef-marrow and one pound of unsalted fresh lard in water two or three days, changing and beating it every day. Put it into a sieve, and, when dry, into a jar, and the jar into a saucepan of water. When melted, pour it into a basin and heat it with two spoonfuls of brandy; drain off the brandy, and then add essence of lemon, bergamot, or any other scent that is liked.--"The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); oct 1863; 67, APS Online, pg. 374
  • Hard Pomatum.-- Prepare equal quantities of beef-marrow and mutton suet as before, using the brandy to preserve it, and adding the scent; then pour it into moulds, or if you have none, into phials of the size you choose the rolls to be. When cold, break the bottles, clear away the glass carefully, and put paper around the rolls.--"The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); oct 1863; 67, APS Online, pg. 374
  • Hard Pomatum.-- Take equal quantities of marrow, melted and strained, lard, and castor oil; warm all together; add any scent you please; stir until cold, and put into pots.-- "The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); oct 1863; 67, APS Online, pg. 374
  • Lemon Pomatum.-- Best lard, two pounds; suet, half a pound; dissolve with a gentle heat, and mix them well together. Then add four ounces of orange-flower water, and four ounces of rose-water, and mix them well together before adding, or they will separate. Having done this, add a quarter of an ounce of essence of lemon; half a drachm of musk, and half a drachm of oil of thyme. Petersons 1860 p. 163
  • Crystalline Pomade.-Mix four ounces of oil of almonds, four ounces of best olive oil, one ounce of spermaceti, two ounces of castor oil. Melt these in a covered jar by the side of the fire; then stir in seventy drops of the following perfume, which should have been previously kept in a stopped phial. Then pour it into your cream jars, cover, and let it stand till cold. A cheaper perfume than the following, such as bergamot or almond flavor, which some people like, may well be used; but the subjoined is the best: Mix together, and shake well in a stopped phial, eight drops of oil of cloves, twenty-five drops of English oil of lavender, one drachm each of essence of bergamot and essence of lemon, and ten drops each of the oil of cassia and otto of roses. Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine Sept. 1863 Pg. 274
  • Circassian Cream (1859)
  • Marrow Pomatum (1859)
  • Jessamine Pomatum.-- Melt a pound of fresh, sweet lard; skim it, and when cold, wash it three times with spring water. Free it from water, and spread it an inch thick on a plate; strew it thickly with jessamine flowers.-- "Recipes for the Toilet." Graham's American Monthly Magazine of Literature, Art, and Fashion (1844-1858); Oct 1856, VOL.XLIX., No. 4., APS Online, pg 364.
  • Pomade of Cucumber (1860)
  • Pomade Divine (1863)
  • To Color Pomatum.-- Yellow, by palm oil or annatto; red, by alkanet root; and green by guaiacum, or the green leaves of parsley. -Peterson's 1860 p. 163
  • A Cheap Pomatum.-- Half an ounce of white wax; half an ounce of spermaceti; eight ounces of olive oil. Dissolve in a basin set in hot water before the fire; add some scent just before pouring into bottles. Or- Get a quarter of a pound of hog's lard, and three quarters of a tumbler of olive oil, about a tablespoon of castor oil, a dessert spoonful of eau-de-cologne, and a pennyworth of gum; the hog's lard and the oil should be warmed a little, till the hog's lard melt [sic], then the rest should be put in. It should be allowed to cool before use. Or- Half a pint of best olive oil, half an ounce of best yellow beeswax, half an ounce of spermaceti, and about two pennyworth of any pleasant perfume. Cut the wax and sperm up small, melt in the oil, and add the scent. -"Receipts for the Toilet" Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892); Jan 1861; VOL. XXXIX., No. 1, pg. 94
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Hair Oil Recipes

  • Oil of Roses for the Hair.-- Olive oil, one quart; attar of roses, one drachm; oil of rosemary, one drachm. Mix. It may be colored by steeping a little alkanet root in the oil (with heat) before scenting it. It strengthens and beautifies the hair. Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine. November 1863. p. 477
  • Macassar Oil.-- It is said to be compounded of the following ingredients:-- To three quarts of common oil, add half a pint of spirits of wine, three ounces of cinnamon powder, and two ounces of bergamot; heat the whole in a large pipkin. On removing from the fire, add three or four small pieces of alkanet root, and keep the vessel closely covered for several hours. When cool, it may be filtered through a funnel lined with filtering paper. Whether oils are used or not, the hair ought, night and morning, to be carefully and elaborately brushed. This is one of the best preservatives of its beauty.- Peterson's 1861
  • Elder Flower Oil for the Hair.-- Take of the best almond or olive oil, one pound; elder flowers (free from stalk), two ounces; place the flowers in the oil in a jar or wide-mouthed bottle; let them remain forty-eight hours; then strain. The oil must now stand in a quiet and cool place for at least a month, in order to clear itself. The bright part being poured off, is fit for use. If considered too strong, plain oil may be added.--"The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); Jul 1855; 51, APS Online, pg. 79
  • Oil for the Hair.-- Oil of ben, one pint; civet, three grains; Italian oil of jasmin, three fluid ounces; attar of roses, three minims. Mix, and it is ready for use.-- Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892); Nov 1857; VOL.XXXII., No. 5.; APS Online, pg. 365
  • An Excellent Hair Oil.-- Boil together half a pint of port wine, one pint and a half of sweet oil, and half a pound of green southernwood. Strain the mixture though a linen rag several times, adding, at the last operation, two ounces of bear's grease. If fresh southernwood is added each time it passes through the linen, the composition will be improved. -Peterson's 1861
  • Hair Oils, &c..-- When used moderately, oils, ointments, &c, tend to strengthen the hair, especially when it is naturally dry. When used in excess, however, they clog the pores, prevent the escape of natural secretions, and cause the hair to wither and fall off. The varieties of "oils", "greases," "ointments" rivaling each other in their high-sounding pretensions, which are daily imposed upon the public credulity, are interminable. We add one or two of the most simple. For Thickening the Hair.-- To one ounce of Palma Christi oil, add a sufficient quantity of bergamot or lavender to scent it. Apply it to the parts where it is most needed, brushing it well into the hair. An Ointment for the Hair.-- Mix two ounces of bear's grease, half an ounce of honey, one drachm of laudanum, three drachms of the powder of southernwood, three drachms of the balsam of Peru, one and a half drachms of the ashes of the roots of bulrushes, and a small quantity of the oil of sweet almonds. -Peterson's 1861, p. 488
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Hair Accouterments and Accessories

False Hair:

I have been looking for written evidence for the direct use of false hair (i.e. not admonitions against using it, which are plentiful) for a few years. Finally, a quote:

"Bertha had not combed her hair; but Charlotte gave hers a hasty dressing before 'going out shopping;' and there laid brush, combs and hair on the table."

"Leisure Hours of the Mill Girls" by Eliza J. Cate, Vol. II, 1842, pp. 65-79 as published in Benita Eisler's The Lowell Offering: Writings by New England Mill Women (1840-1845)

Rats: An important part of any woman's hairstyle is volume! Victorian women used 'rats', rolls made of hair, to create the desired width. They are easy to make, and all you need is hair and a hairnet from the drugstore (the thin, invisible kind, in a color matching your hair as closely as possible). Let the loose hair collect on your brush for a month or so. Cover the resulting wad in a hairnet and knot. A period method is to collect your combings in a basket, also known as a hair receiver, which you can mold into the proper shape when you have enough, and bind with a net. Make a few sausage-shaped, and a few round or oval.

Combs and Hairpins: Combs and hairpins were used to hold the hair in place. Combs were often decorative as well as functional. Combs were worn in the back chignon, or sometimes on either side of the face, around eye level. You can buy original combs, but it is not recommended that they be worn to reenactments. The closest commonly available type of comb is plastic. Magic Grip Hairpins closely resemble mid 19th c. pins, but the modern ones have an extra piece in the center.

Examples of 19th. c Haircombs:

Image: "hair ornaments of cut-steel were popular as they very effectively caught the light in their many facets as does diamond. The butterfly and flower coronet is early 19th century; the fleur-de-lys tiara is French, about 1810. (private collection)"- Becker, Vivienne. Antique and Twentieth Century Jewellry: A Guide for Collectors. Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, New York, 1982. Pg. 77

Image:"Unusual materials turned into elegant hair-ornaments in the jeweller's hands suggest another idea for collecting: hair-combs. Top and centre: plastic imitating ivory, set with jet or painted. Right: finely carved tortoise-shell, about 1860. Left: tortoise-shell painted with gold and silver birds, French, about 1890. Below right and left: two Art-Nouveau hair-combs. Bottom: French jet (Galerie 360, Private collection)- Becker, Vivienne. Antique and Twentieth Century Jewellry: A Guide for Collectors. Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, New York, 1982, pg. 81

Image:"tortoise-shell is traditionally an attractive and suitable material for hair ornaments, being light, easy to wear, and especially attractive when the light shines through to show the mottled markings. This group shows the variations in pique combs, mid to late 19th c. (Halerie 360; private Collection)- Becker, Vivienne. Antique and Twentieth Century Jewellry: A Guide for Collectors. Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, New York, 1982, pg. 36

Image:Flowers as hair ornaments. Right: silver and silver gilt filigree hair-pin with delicate spray of flowers. The right-hand flowerhead is mounted on a spring so that it trembled. About 1868. Left: a small hair-comb mounted with a steel flower, cut and faceted to catch the light. About 1830-40. (Galerie 360)- Becker, Vivienne. Antique and Twentieth Century Jewellry: A Guide for Collectors. Van Nostrand Reinhold Company, New York, 1982, pg. 126

Image 1. Image 2 "Design for jeweled combs: watercolor, Italian, c. 1850. The Cooper Union Museum for the Arts of Decoration, New York" Lanllier, Jean, and Marie-Anne Pini. Five Centuries of Jewelry in the West. Alpine Fine Arts Collection, London, 1983. pg. 151

"Advertisement"Liberator (1831-1865) ; May 3. 1839; 9, 18, APS Online pg 72.
COMBS, FANCY GOODS AND PERFUMERY A.S. JORDAN, wholesale and retail Store, of the original Golden Comb, No 2. Milk street, two doors from Washington street, would invite attention to more than two hundred different patterns of wrought and plain Combs, of the latest and most fashionable sizes, along which are the Victoria Comb of 40 different patterns, including the new star or lace pa-----, that cannot be imitated in horn, highly rich and ornamental- Crescent Combs, of original and beautiful patterns-- wrought and plain back Combs-- do do cap or twist Combs-- do do puff or tuck Combs -- do do side and neck combs -- do do round combs -- Shell, Ivory, Horn and Wood dressing and pocket Combs- Terrese Shell Hair Bands -- Pearl do do do -- constantly on hand. Horn and Metallic Combs of every description- fine ivory combs. Also, a large assortment of Fancy Goods and Perfumery-- Toilet Soapsand Brushes. Purchasers will find it in their interest to call before purchasing elsewhere. -> Combs made to order and repaired. Higher price paid for Shell. April 19. 2m.

Hairpieces: Victorian women also made use of switches, hair pieces, fake braids, and pin-on curls. You can buy real hair or synthetic, which is cheaper. Beware of using synthetic hair, however, since it is plastic and can look modern. Look at it in the sunlight next to your own hair before buying to see how it will appear at reenactments. Use at your own discretion.

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General Hair Care

  • Cleansing the Hair.-- Nothing but good can be derived from a due attention to cleaning the hair. Once a week is perhaps desirable, but this will depend upon the individual; persons with light, thin, and dry hair will require it more seldom than those with thick, greasy hair, or who perspire very freely. Nothing is better than soap and water. The soap should be mild, and well and plentifully rubbed in the hair.-- "Receipts for the Toilet" Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892); Jan 1861; VOL. XXXIX., No. 1, pg. 94
  • To Promote the growth of the Hair.-- Mix equal parts of olive oil and spirits of rosemary, add a few drops of oil of nutmeg. If the hair be rubbed every night with this, and the proportion be very gradually increased, it will answer every purpose of facilitating the growth of the hair. -Peterson's 1861
  • To Restore the Hair.--When ill-health has removed it, care should be taken to keep the roots moist and free from scurf. One of the simplest is olive oil, slightly scented, or pomatum, made of beef or mutton suet and fresh lard, with the marrow from the bones; the latter is very efficacious. Onions rubbed on the scalp will stimulate the growth of the hair, but this is an unpleasant application. Many of the scented oils advertised give a fine gloss to the hair, but should be used with caution. Oil of walnut is much reccomended for restoring the hair. "Recipes for the Toilet." Graham's American Monthly Magazine of Literature, Art, and Fashion (1844-1858); Oct 1856, VOL.XLIX., No. 4., APS Online, pg 364.
  • To Restore Hair-- Hair, when removed by illness or old age, has been restored by the following simple means; though they are not likely to prove efficacious in all cases. Rub the bald places frequently with an onion.-"The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); Jul 1855; 51, APS Online, pg. 79
  • Hair Wash.--One drachm of tincture of lytta, half an ounce of spirits of wine, half an ounce of spirits of rosemary. Put these into a bottle, and add half a pint of cold water. - Peterson's 1860, p. 163
  • Hair Wash.-- An excellent and perfectly harmless hair wash may be made as follows:-- take two or three pennyworth of rosemary, strip the leaves from the stalks, and put them into a jar, with nearly half a pint of cold water. Place the jar near the fire, and let the contents simmer gently for an hour or two without setting or burning. When the water is somewhat reduced, the infusion will be sufficiently string. Then add half a pint of rum, and simmer the whole for a while longer. When cold, strain the liquid from the leaves, and keep it in a bottle to be ready for use. Apply it to the roots of the hair with a small sponge, or a piece of flannel. Egg wash for the hair is made by beating up the yoke of a raw egg and adding it to the rosemary infusion made as above. -Peterson's 1860, p. 321
  • Cleaning Hair Brushes.-- It is said that soda dissolved in cold water is better than soap and hot water. The latter very soon softens the hairs, and the rubbing completes their destruction. Soda having an affinity for grease, cleans the brush with very little friction. -Peterson's 1861
  • To Clean Head and Clothes-Brushes.-- Put a tablespoonful of Pearlash into a pint of boiling water. Having fastened a bit of sponge to the end of a stick, dip it into the solution, and wash the brush with it. Next pour over it some clean, hot water, and put it aside for a short time; then drain and wipe it with a cloth, and dry it before the fire. p. 314
  • Hair Brushes.-- To clean hair-brushes, put a spoon-ful of pearlash into a pint of boiling water, then fasten a bit of sponge to the end of a stick, dip it into the solution, and wash the brush. Next pour some hot water over it, and dry before the fire.-- "The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); Jul 1855; 51, APS Online, pg. 79
  • To Prevent the Hair Falling Off.--Put one pound of unadulterated honey into a still, with three handfuls of the tendrils of grape-vine, and the same quantity of rosemary tops. Distill as cool and slowly as possible. The liquor may be allowed to drop till it tastes sour.--"Recipes for the Toilet." Graham's American Monthly Magazine of Literature, Art, and Fashion (1844-1858); Oct 1856, VOL.XLIX., No. 4., APS Online, pg 364.
  • Receipt for Preventing the Hair Falling Off.-- Onions must be rubbed frequently on the part. The stimulating powers of this vegetable are of essential service in restoring the tone of the skin, and assisting the capillary vessels in sending forth new hair; but it is not infallible. Should it succeed, however, the growth of these new hairs may be assisted by the oil of myrtle-berries, the repute of which, perhaps, is greater than its real efficiency. These applications are cheap and harmless, even where they do no good; a character cannot be said of the numerous quack remedies that meet the eye in every direction. --"Receipts for the Toilet" Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892); Jan 1861; VOL. XXXIX., No. 1, pg. 94
  • For Removing Scurf From the Head :-- Take two ounces of castor oil, six ounces of olive oil, and an ounce and a half of tincture of cantharides; mix it well, and add two drachms of essence of bergamot, to render it agreeable. Or-- Mix equal quantities of rum and oil, and use it like oil alone.- Peterson's 1860 p. 488
  • A Receipt for Scurf in the Head that will not Injure the Color of the Hair.-- The following is a most efficacious, safe, and agreeable receipt. I have tried it, and found it answer exceedingly well. Into a pint of water drop a lump of quicklime, the size of a walnut; let it stand all night; then pour the water off, clear off sediment, or deposit, add a quarter of a pint of the best vinegar, and wash the head, thoroughly wetting the roots of the hair.
  • Pomatum-- The following is the recipe of Dupuytren, the celebrated French physician, to prepare a pomatum to prevent baldness, and promote the growth of human hair. it is muc esteemed by the medical faculty, one of whom furnished it for the columns of the Southern Planter, the editor of which, since its receipt, has applied it with great success, to an inveterate ?etter on the head of a little boy in his own family:
    Take of Beef Marrow (well tried) 8 oz.
    Sugar of lead (well pulverized) 1 drachm
    Old Brandy 1 oz.
    Oil of Cloves 15 drops
    Tincture of Cantharides, (Spanish flies) 15 scrup.
    Mix intimately, and rub the bald part, or that likely to become so, every evening.- The American Farmer, and Spirit of the Agricultural Journals of the Day, 1839(Sep 29, 1841); 3,19; APS Online; pg. 149
  • Pomatum to Prevent Hair From Falling Off.-- Take the marrow out of two beef bones, put it into cold water, and let it remain until it is quite clean and white. Before this is effected the water must be changed several times. Dissolve and strain the marrow; then add four ounces of the best castor oil. Beat both well together until cold, then add, before the pomatum becomes firm, half an ounce of strong scent. This pomatum should be well rubbed into the skin of the head every night, and the hair should be well brushed both night and morning.--"The Toilet" Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882); May 1863; 66, APS Online, pg. 486.
  • Removing Superfluous Hair. The only method of effectually removing superfluous hair, is by means of small forceps made for the purpose. Only five or six should be removed at once, in the course of twenty-four hours, and those not close together. The parts should afterwards be washed in spirits of wine.--"Recipes for the Toilet." Graham's American Monthly Magazine of Literature, Art, and Fashion (1844-1858); Oct 1856, VOL.XLIX., No. 4., APS Online, pg 364.
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Glossary and Instructions for Unusual Ingredients in 19th c. hair care receipts


Ingredients

  • civet : 2. A yellowish or brownish unctuous substance, having a strong musky smell, obtained from sacs or glands in the anal pouch of several animals of the Civet genus, especially of the African Civet-cat. It is used in perfumery.
    "civet, n.1"The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989. OED Online . Oxford University Press. 29 Aug 2007, .
  • isinglass 1. A firm whitish semitransparent substance (being a comparatively pure form of gelatin) obtained from the sounds or air-bladders of some fresh-water fishes, esp. the sturgeon; used in cookery for making jellies, etc., also for clarifying liquors, in the manufacture of glue, and for other purposes. Also extended to similar substances made from hides, hoofs, etc.
    "isinglass, n.1"The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989. OED Online . Oxford University Press. 29 Aug 2007, .
  • Oil of Ben : oil obtained from the ben-nut.
    "oil of ben, n.3"The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989. OED Online . Oxford University Press. 29 Aug 2007, .
  • Perfumed Oils.--These are prepared by soaking cotton in fine olive oil, and spreading it in layers, over which such flowers as violets, jessamine, or roses, should be lightly strewn. The oil will thus imbibe the scent of the flowers, and should be pressed from the cotton, and, if necessary, filtered through flannel. Most of the French scented oils are made by this process. -- "Recipes for the Toilet." Graham's American Monthly Magazine of Literature, Art, and Fashion (1844-1858); Oct 1856, VOL.XLIX., No. 4., APS Online, pg 364.
  • Rose Water.Put roses into water, and add one or two drops only of vitriolic acid. The water assumes the color, and becomes impregnated with the flowers.-- "Recipes for the Toilet." Graham's American Monthly Magazine of Literature, Art, and Fashion (1844-1858); Oct 1856, VOL.XLIX., No. 4., APS Online, pg 364.

Measurements

  • Drachm 2. A weight approximately equivalent to that of the Greek coin. Hence, in Apothecaries' weight = 60 grains, or of an ounce, in Avoirdupois weight = 27 grains or of an ounce. (Spelt drachm or dram.) Also, the Arabic DIRHEM. fluid drachm = of fluid ounce, = 60 minims or drops.
    "drachm, n. 2" The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989. OED Online. Oxford University Press. 29 Aug 2007, .
  • minim: b. The smallest unit of liquid capacity in apothecaries' measure, equal to a sixtieth of a fluid drachm (approx. 0.47 ml). The measure is roughly equivalent to one drop of liquid.
    "minim, n.1"The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989. OED Online . Oxford University Press. 29 Aug 2007, .
  • Scruple 1. A unit of weight = 20 grains, drachm, oz. Apothecaries' weight.
    "scruple, n.1"The Oxford English Dictionary. 2nd ed. 1989. OED Online. Oxford University Press. 29 Aug 2007, .
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19th c. Articles on Hair

The art of perfumery and the methods of obtaining the odours of plants By George William Septimus Piesse, Published 1862 by Longman, Green, Longman and Roberts

Page. 337. "Creme de Mauve or Hair Gloss: This preparation serves the double purpose of a dressing for the hair and as a fixateur. It is especially made for giving gloss and brilliancy to the hair, when an engagement requires that the tresses and curls should appear particularly elegant, as at a ball, soiree, or the opera, and is made thus: -- Pure glycerine....4 lbs. Spirit of Jasmine...1 pint. Aniline...5 drops.

LADIES' HAIR :-- I wish some one would write a good treatise-- how well the writers of some articles in the Quarterly would do it!-- on hair dressing. How often do we see a really good face made quite ugly by a total inattention to lines. Sometimes the hair is pushed into the cheeks, and squared at the forehead, so as to give a most extraordinary pinched shape to the face. Let the oval, where it exists, be always preserved; where it does not, let the hair be so humored that the deficiency shall not be perceived. Nothing is more common than to see a face, which is somewhat too large below, made to look grossly large and course, by contracting the hair on the forehead and cheeks, and there bringing it to an abupt check; whereas such a face should enlarge the forehead and the cheek, and let the hair fall partially over, so as to shade and soften off the lower exuberance. A good treatise, with examples in outline of the defects, would be of some value upon a lady's toilet who would wish to preserve her great privilege-- the supremacy of beauty. Some press the hair down close to the face, which is to lose the very characteristic of hair-- ease and freedom. Let her locks, says Anacron, lie as they like; the Greek gives them life and a will. Some ladies wear the hair like blinkers; you always suspect they will shy if you approach them.-- Blackwood
"Ladies' Hair" Gleason's Pictorial Drawing-Room Companion (1851-1854) May 21, 1853; 4, 21; APS Online, pf. 334.

News Items. Saturday Evening Post. Jan 10, 1857. APS Online Pg. 6

Hirsute Extravagance.-- A ladies' hairdresser in New York informs his patrons that owing to his present style of dressing ladies' hair, the charge will be two dollars each time during the season, after the first of January, 1857. Brides in the fashion of Louis XIV., IV., &c., as heretofore, five dollars.

Why is a lady's hair like the latest news? because in the morning we always find it in the papers.
"untitled" The New-York Mirror: A Weekly Gazette of Literature and the Fine Arts 1823... May 30, 1840; 17, 49; APS Online. pg. 392

Newspapers. A cotemporary [sic] says:-- "The Newspaper may be destroyed at night, it may light a segar, or it may curl a lady's hair, but the thoughts that are in its columns may influence ten thousands for good, and produce effects which volumes of essays, sermons or narratives, could never reach." To this another Journal edited by a bachelor of course, adds the following rhapsody: The very though of one's lucubrations nestling down at night among the wringlets of a sweet girl, keeping watch over her midnight slumbers, as well as curling her hair, is enough to infuse poetry into the pen, and make the ink as it traces along the sheet fragrant with sentiment."
--"Untitled" The Green Mountain Gem; A Monthly Journal of Literature, Science, and the Art.... Oct 7, 1843, 1, 19; APS Online. Pg. 151

"Arrangement of the Hair." Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine Jan. 1959: 45-46. (A shorter version of this article was also published in the March, 1861 issue on pages 267-268.)

In the arrangement of the hair the greatest regard ought to be paid to the style of the features as well as to the general appearance of the wearer. It is thus only that we can hope to avoid such errors of taste as we frequently see committed by those who regardless of the fitness of a particular mode of arrangement, to which they may have taken a fancy, to their own style of countenance, adopt it at once without due consideration. The mode which they admire may perhaps have been adapted by the dictates of the nicest taste to the features of the wearer, while to their own it is completely unsuited; but, pleased with its effect in those whom they admire it, and yet ignorant of the source of the charm, they blindly adopt it, and, instead of rendering themselves more attractive, they become merely ridiculous.

When the features are large, or strongly marked, the hair should be arranged in masses, in large curls, or well-defined bows, so as to harmonize with the general cast of the countenance. If, on the contrary, the features are small and delicate, the greatest care should be taken not to render too striking the contrast between them and the magnitude of the headdress. Small and delicately formed curls or ringlets, braids, or light and airy bows are the most pleasing varieties for this style.

The features of the greater number of young ladies, however, cannot be classed under either of these extremes. When such is the case, the fancy of the individual is, of course, allowed greater latitude, but ought to be no less subject to the dictates of taste.

There are what may be called four distinct styles of arrangement, under one or the other of which the various modes of dressing the hair may be classed: in bows, in braids, in twists, or in curls. To the latter class may be also referred ringlets, since they are only a modification to suit the features of particular individuals.

Bows will be found particularly suitable where the face is round, as they tend to lengthen the countenance, and make its peculiarities less apparent. The longest they can be made without extravagance, the more pleasing will be the effect. If, on the contrary, the countenance is narrow and lengthened, low, swelling bows should be adopted.

In arranging bows care should be taken to avoid an exact uniformity on each side. Such an arrangement gives an air of stiffness, from which it is at all times well to be free from.

To braids the above observations are, in general, equally applicable.

Curls, no less than bows, require being carefully adapted in size to the features. If the face is long and deficient in breadth, the great mass should be made to cluster near the temples, and fall gracefully over the cheek, taking care, however, not to conceal the latter, and thus render the length still more apparent. From the ease with which curls are adapted to every style of feature-and there are few indeed to which they are not becoming and from the facility which they afford to display a beauty or conceal a defect, this has always been a favorite style of arrangement.

Ringlets, as has already been remarked, are merely a modification of curls. They require, however, to be more cautiously adopted, as, though extremely fascinating when suited to the style of the wearer, they give an air of ridicule to one to which they are unsuited. [Note: 1861 version ends here]

Ladies who are petite, either in stature or in feature, should avoid anything approaching to exuberance in their headdress.

Flowers form decidedly the most becoming articles for ornamenting the hair; but the greatest care is necessary in suiting them to the complexion of the wearer and the style of the headdress. They must, on one hand, be neither numerous, or large enough to appear to encumber the head; nor, on the other hand, so few in quantity and insignificant as entirely to lose their individuality of character among the tresses by which they are surrounded. The hair, arranged according to the dictates of taste, is, without dispute, the most attractive of all headdresses; and it should be borne in mind that the addition of all ornament ought to be for the purpose of heightening its effect, not of overshadowing or concealing it.

When worn in low wreaths, flowers ought not to be placed so low as to fall down upon and conceal the forehead. An air of stiffness is the certain accompaniment of an ill-arranged wreath, however suitable the materials of which it is composed. It ought not, therefore, to cross the head in a straight line, or be exactly uniform on both sides, but, on the contrary, traverse the head in a slightly slanting direction, with here and there a bud or a blossom peeping through amongst a cluster of ringlets, or nestling amid a group of curls. There are few styles of beauty to which a judiciously assorted wreath of flowers will not lend a charm.

Wreaths ought not to be worn unless when the hair is arranged in what may be called the ornate style; ornate, we mean in opposition to simplicity.

We cannot conclude our observations on this branch of our subject better than in the words of a writer, who remarks, generally: "Whatever be the reigning mode, and however beautiful a fine head of hair may be generally esteemed, those who are short in stature, or small in features, should never indulge in a profuse display of their tresses, if they would, in one case, avoid the appearance of dwarfishness and unnatural size of the head, and, in the other, of making the face seem less than it actually is, and thus causing what is merely petite to appear insignificant. If the hair be closely dressed by other, those who have round or broad faces should nevertheless continue to wear drooping clusters of curls; and, although it be customary to part the hair in the center, the division should be made on one side, if it grow low on the forehead, and beautifully high on the temples; but, if the hair be too distant from the eyebrows, it should be parted only in the middle, where it is generally lower than at the sides, whatever temptation fashion may offer to the contrary. We might multiply instances ad libitum; but the forgoing cases will, no doubt not, satisfactorily elucidate our proposition. It is our object to press on our readers the propriety of complying with the ordinances of fashion, when their observance is not forbidden by individual peculiarities, and the necessity of fearlessly setting them at defiance, or offering only a partial obedience, when a compliance with them would be positively detrimental to personal grace."

Treatment of the Hair:-- If the ladies will trust to our science on the subject of hair, in the first place, we can assure them, most confidently, that, so far is it from being true that oils and pomatums increase the luster of the hair, their effect is to diminish that polish which it naturally possesses; while, whatever gloss they may give to hair which is naturally dull, is false, and, like all other falsities, disgusting. Absolute cleanliness, by means of water alone, to commence, followed by brushing in the direction of the hair itself in a dry state is the true method of giving to the hair all the polish of which it is susceptible; and it is the effect of oils of all kinds to disturb or injure this; to say nothing of the disgust and necessary dirtiness of greasy hair. It is the effect of oils to prevent it from curling; and this object is most effectually obtained, if without artificial means, by curling it when wet, and suffering it to dry in that state. And, as it happens that almost all hair has a tendency to curl in one direction rather than in another, it is useful to study that tendency, so as to conform to it in the artificial flexure given. As to artificial applications, the whole of the so-called curling-fluids are mere impositions; while one, which is really effectual, and at the same time inoffensive, is a weak solution of isinglass, by which a very firm and permanent form can be given to the hair.-- Godey's Lady's Book and Magazine (1854-1882) May 1857; 54, APS Online, pg 463

To Preserve the Hair.-- Ladies desirous of improving scanty or weak locks, or of keeping abundant tresses in good order, should, every alternate day part the hair from the top of the head downward, beginning on the temple; in doing this, raise the scurf slightly with a tall-comb, brush the division both ways briskly, rub in some pomatum with the finger, and repeat the process, making the divisions close upon one another all round the head. grease the points well afterward, and examine them every two or three days, clipping off any split ends a little above the division, with a slanting cut; then, if anxious to lengthen your hair, you can dispense with a hair-dresser's assistance. Brushing the hair a little on retiring to rest in a direction contrary to the way it is worn in the day, is also beneficial. There can be no doubt that continual care and attention are necessary, not only to improve, but even to preserve the hair. Where it has a tendency to become dry, the owner should use a little pomatum constantly. Oil is not so good as semi-fluid pomade. The crimping of the hair, which has been so fashionable for some time, whether by plaiting or twisting upon hair-pins at night, is very destructive. Hair should, upon no account, be plaited at night; but, if very long, may be put loosely into a crochet or netting-cap, which is too open to be unhealthy. It is hardly necessary to say that fresh partings should be made every day, and the hair cleansed with a wash about once a week.-- "Editor's Table." Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892); dec 1863; VOL.XLIV., No 6, APS Online, pg. 478

Godey's Lady's Book Vol. 62 Pg. 283 March 1861

Short Hair for Ladies

"I know, Mr. Godey, to an absolute certainty, from both reason and experience, that short hair would be a great comfort and convenience, and a real blessing to woman-kind everywhere. Any intelligent lady or gentleman must admit that it is a great tax upon us to have so much hair to be done up and arranged every day, and sometimes oftener, for a common lifetime-amounting to many thousand times-just to suit a foolish fashion, and because our mothers and grandmothers did before us. Men have not submitted and will not submit to this inconvenience, yet women have to. Long hair, to the sick and afflicted women everywhere over the world, is absolutely a burden, and to all others it is a great and useless inconvenience. And where is the 'glory' of all 'its fair length,' so much talked about, when done up in a knot on the back of the head? It is nonsense to talk of its length as its chief element of beauty when that quality is forever concealed from the human gaze, as it is in the done-up style, which makes it to all intents and purposes even shorter than the men's. Where, then, is its beauty? Are these knots of hair on the back of our heads so very handsome?-this round, knotted, imprisoned mass which gives us a conception of anything else except the length of a lady's hair? Must we sacrifice the health of the hair, its freedom, its flowing nature, the comfort of the wearer, the natural shape of the head, and all things else, for the sake of the length of the hair, which, after all, we do not get to see in the done-up style; not even as much as in the flowing short style. Let me briefly show in contrast the points of difference between short hair and done-up hair. When the hair is cut to a convenient length in the neck we have the freedom of the hair, its health, the comfort of the wearer, its downward flowing nature, which poets so much admire, and which is the natural condition of the hair, and we have the natural shape of the head, always beautiful; the undergrowth of hair behind, at the junction of the head and neck, is all concealed; besides, the hair, when cut evenly around in the neck, forms a most beautiful silken border, and the color of the hair in contrast with the whiteness of the neck forms one of the most brilliant, beautiful, and angelic contrasts in the world. Then we have a greater show of the length of the hair. Now, contrast all these points of beauty with the entire lack of the same in done-up hair, and then let anyone decide which style is the most beautiful. And how grandly flowing hair for women corresponds with, and how symbolic of her own gentle, flowing nature! Now, Mr. Godey, I submit the points I have made in favor of the convenience, comfort, and beauty of short hair for women-which are but a few things which can be said in its favor-whether the blessings that would flow from it would not justify considerable effort on our part to change public sentiment in our favor? I have every reason to believe, from those whom I have talked with, that there are thousands in our land who would adopt short hair at once were they not over-awed by public opinion. But they think, like thousands of others, that they might almost 'as well be out of the world as out of fashion.' Mr. Godey, I know you have the interest and welfare of woman-kind at heart, and now will you aid me a little with your advice, counsel, and instructions in my effort to change public sentiment in favor of the benefits, comforts, and blessings that short hair would give to woman-kind everywhere? Please answer soon, if it suits your convenience and pleasure, and instruct me how I can best deal with this subject to insure success."

HAIR OF CHILDREN.--

It is a great mistake to plait the hair of children under the age of eleven or twelve years of age. The process of plaiting more or less strains the hairs in their roots by pulling them tight, tends to deprive them of the requisite supply of nutriment, and checks their growth. The hair of girls should be cut rather short, and allowed to curl freely h. When they are about eleven or twelve, the hair should be twisted into a coil not too tight, nor tied at the end with thin thread, but with a piece of ribbon. Godey's Lady's Book Sept 1859 p. 270

What is the Reason? It is a melancholy fact that not one lady in a hundred, in these United States, has fine or luxuriant hair. Everybody is complaining of the loss of " woman's chief glory," and wondering why on earth pomatums and hair washes, oils, and restoratives, fail to bring it back " as per advertisement." We suspect there would be a general exclamation of incredulity among the gentlemen, did they but know what an immense proportion of the tastefully arranged tresses they behold on a fair head grew on somebody else's pate. Almost every woman wears a "roll" or "braid", which comes from the hairdresser's, and costs from five to twenty dollars. It is disposed with consummate skill-- you cannot distinguish the sly hair-pins that fasten on the false decoration, yet there it is, a tacit confession that nature gives way to art.
" My hair will keep coming out, although I take the greatest pains with it," sighs the fashionable belle; "I don't see what the trouble is!"
There are several "troubles," first and foremost among which is the expensive "roll" itself. Any hair-dresser will tell you that the weight and pressure of this heavy mass of false hair, with the heat it induces around the head, is highly prejudicial to the growth and welfare of the real hair. If you must wear a roll, let it be as seldom as possible. Whenever you can dispense with it, do so. Let its place be supplied as often as practicable with a light head-dress, secured with as few hair-pins as will support it. These last are fearfully destructive to the hair, cutting and wearing it to an incredible degree. Gutta-percha hair-pins are the best, and even these should be limited in number.
All sorts of Pomatums, oils, and preparations, had better be let alone. There is no use in soaking the skin of the head in grease, as is often done. If the hair is harsh and dry, castor-oil, perfumed, is the best application, but the scalp itself should not be saturated. Washing the hair thoroughly in fair water, once a week, will be found very beneficial.
Bodily health is almost essential to the natural growth of the hair. Nothing indicates the progress of sickness so plainly as the dry, dead look of the hair; and if our American ladies want lovely, luxuriant tresses, they must avoid heated rooms, late hours, and fashionable dissipation. There is no help for it-- nature will avenge any infringement on her laws, and the sooner we become thoroughly convinced of this fact, the better for us!
There is no ornament half so becoming to a female head as thick, beautiful hair. It needs no decoration beyond a natural flower or two. Nets, diamond sprays, tiaras of pearl, are useless-- it is like "painting the lily" to wear them. Remember this, girls, and take every precaution to preserve this exquisite ornament of Nature's manufacture. Once gone, it is hard to coax back again! -- "The Toilet" Peterson's Magazine (1849-1892); Feb 1861; VOL. XXXIX., No. 2.; pg. 183

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On Hair Dressers of the mid 19th c.

  • Gentlemen: In the ladies' hairdressing business for over ten years, and have constantly used different kinds of Hair Dyes. I find BOSWELL & WARNER'S COLORIFIC, for changing Hair to a beautiful Brown or Black, the best, and more satisfactory to my customers than any Hair Dye in use.
    J. O'BRIEN.
    Ladies' Hairdresser, No. 877 1/2 Broadway, N.Y. One application. No wash or preparation. Try it. You will use no other. General Depot. No. 9 Dey-street, New-York. "Advertisement" New York Times (1857-Current File) May 2, 1864: 8
  • Wanted- By a respectable girl, a situation as ladies' hairdresser; wishes to engage by the month. Can be seen at No. 122 West 26th-st. "Situations Wanted. Females." New York Times (1857-Current File); Nov 2, 1864: 3
  • LADIES' HAIR DRESSERS
    DU FOUR AND BARKER
    STILL REMAIN AT THEIR OLD STAND, 637 BROADWAY
    Where all orders in their line are promptly attended to.
    Ladies and Gentlemen, can be supplied with Wigs of the most beautiful workmanship, at the shortest notice. These, with a stock of perfumery, and fancy articles, and offered at the lowest prices.-- "Advertisement" Brother Jonathan. A Weekly Compend of Belles Lettres and the Fine Arts, Stand.... Nov 25, 1843; 6, 13; APS Online. Pg. 366
  • WANTED TO LADY HAIR-DRESSERS.-- Wanted, girls to work at various branches of the business. Girls can always procure employment at Rose's 168 1/2 grand-st, Williamsburg, between Fifth and Sixth-sts. "Advertisement" New York Daily Times (1851-1857); Aug 20, 1852; ProQuest Historical Newspapers The New York Times (1851- 2004) pg. 3.
  • W. J. BARKER, LADIES' HAIR DRESSER, 349 BROADWAY, Opposite the Carlton House. oct 2-3m. "Advertisement" Home Journal (1846-1856); Oct 2, 1847; 40, 91; APS Online pg. 3
  • Dudbrige Lodica, ladies' hair dresser, bds. 174 Main. [pg 220]
    Payne Mrs. H. L., ladies' hair dresser, 144 Main, h. [pg. 283] Kalamazoo County Directory: With a History of the County from Its Earliest Settlement,James M. Thomas, Gregory E. Pritchard, Published 1869 by J. M. Thomas, 374 pages. Original from the University of Michigan. Digitized Nov 30, 2005 Google Books /li>
  • East Saginaw directory: "Nicholas, Mrs. Mary, ladies hair dresser, 321 Genesse">Indian and Pioneer History of the Saginaw Valley: With Histories of East Saginaw, Saginaw City.... Thomas & Galatian, Published 1866. Thomas & Galatian, 405 pages. Original from the University of Michigan. Digitized Nov 28, 2005 Google Books.
  • REMOVAL JAMES G. BARBADOES, respectfully informs his friends and the public general that he has removed from Elm street, and has taken a neat and commodious Shop, No. 62 Court and Tremont Streets, opposite the head of Brattle street, which he has fitted up with a good supply of soft water to wash after the use of a sharp Razor. Hair cut in superior style at the low proce of 12 1-2 cents; Curling 12 1-12 cents.
    Customers will be furnished with private Mugs and Brushes and Soap at 50 cents per year. Liberator (1831-1865) ; May 3. 1839; 9, 18, APS Online, pg. 72.
  • CREME DE PALMA CHRISTI, POUR FORTIFIER LA CRUE DES CHEVEAUX et leur donner une apparence soyuese, preparee par W.J. Barker, Perruquier-Coiffeur, 349 Broadway.
    BEWARE OF COUNTERFEITS. To get the genuine Barker's Creme de Palma Christi, or Castor Oil Cream-- for the preservation, beauty and growth of the hair, be sure that every bottle and jar is labelled, as above, in French. Sold only at Barker's Ladies Hair-Dressing Rooms, 349 broadway, and Winship's Druggist, 77 East Broadway. European Agency, Barker & Dobson, 75 Paradise st. Opposite the post office, Liverpool. 7-3m.
    LADIES' HAIR DRESSING ROOM J.G.B. also informs the ladies and children that he has a neat and convenient room, entrance on Court st No. 62, separate from his shop, fitted uyp in good style, expressly for their accomodation for cutting and curling their hair.
    Price for cutting misses and children's hair, 12 1-2 cents; Ladies hair, 25 cents. To give children's hair proper growth, it should be cut by a skillful hand. Particular attention will be paid to it by myself, at the low price of 12 1-2 cents.
    No lady will risk spoiling her children's hair for a mere trifle; and as my style of hair cutting is not second to any one in this city, I trust that the ladies will give me liberal patronage. "Advertisement" Spirit of the Times; A Chronicle of the Turf, Agriculture, Field Sports, Lite... Feb 3, 1849; 18, 50; APS Online, pg 598.
  • Pierre Touissant, the aged negro who died last week in New York city, of the gout, left about $30,000, and a noble character; for, although rigidly religious, he was generous in his charity, and kind and sympathizing with all who suffered. He was a slave in St. Domingo, fled from that is; and with his mistress in 1778, and after arriving in New York was her sole support during her life. As a lady's hair-dresser he was long patronized by rich families. "News of the Week" German Reformed Messenger (1851-1867); Jul 20. 1853; 18, 46; APS Online pg. 3919
  • 452. Ladies' Maids. Some of the most wealthy or self- indulgent ladies have a female attendant to dress and wait on them, but it is not so common in the United States as in older and more wealthy countries. In Slave States, a colored woman, graceful and good natured, is often set apart from the family servants for this purpose. The difficulty that attends the taking of a colored servant in travelling, sometimes calls for a white attendant to act in this capacity. The business is light, and brings good wages. A maid should endeavor to secure a place with a lady that is amiable and patient. She will find ability to perform the services of a lady's hair dresser a valuable acquisition." The Employments of Women: A Cyclopaedia of Woman's Work. By Virginia Penny, Published 1863 by Walker, Wise & Co., 500 pages, Original from the New York Public Library. Digitized Oct 20, 2006 Google Books. page 430
  • A lady of high fashion having once given out that she wanted a female attendant, one of a very promising appearance presented herself.being asked whether she understood combing the hair and arranging the head-dress, the new candidate replied that was precisely what she excelled in, as she only required five minutes to comb and arrange the largest head of hair. "You may go," said the lady, heaving a deep sigh, "what, comb a lady's hair in five minutes; and pray how am I to pass the rest of my morning?" "Untitled" Spirit of the Times; A Chronicle of the Turf, Agriculture, Field Sports, Lite.... Aug 10, 1839; 9, 23; APS Online. Pg. 267
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FAQs

Q. What can I do about bangs? I use plenty of pomade on my bangs to keep them stiff, then coil them under tightly enough to keep them in place.. Unfortunately, this makes it hard to get a flattering line above your forehead. You may try bobby pins or hair clips, hidden beneath the rest of your hair, and a good dose of modern hairspray. A slat bonnet, or other head covering of some kind can aid in covering up clips and stray bangs.

Q. What should I do if my hair is layered and is difficult to keep together in a coil or braid? It can be difficult to hide all the loose ends with layered hair. When working on other's hair, I have tried using plenty of pomade to gum the ends, then pushed them under the best bun I could make. Many women reenactors use a piece of false hair made into a braided or coiled bun to cover up the blunt ends.

Q. What can I do if my hair is short? If you have short, but unstyled, or in other words, hair that looks like it could has been shorn very close, and then let grow a bit: A post-war style was to have rather short, wavy, messy hair pulled back with a comb on either side of the head. I haven't been able to document this to the war era yet, but if anyone can, let me know! A plausible reason a woman might have had short hair was if she had a fever. Shearing the hair off was a way to cope with the heat. Just in case, it might be helpful to carry around a copy of a CDV showing a woman with short hair, to fend off any nay-sayers. There is a stunning image in the book On Women and Friendship. To avoid looking too modern, trying applying a small amount of oil, and parting in the middle.

Q. What should I do with my dyed/short modern cut hair? If you have very short, modern styled hair, or it is dyed an unnatural color, you will have to try to hide as much of your hair as possible. Although hair dyes, such as henna, were available to women, modern chemical dyes will be easily identified and can ruin an otherwise good look. For very short hair, make as much of a part as you can, keeping it down with pomade. I find it easier to set hair in place after I have washed it, as it has then absorbed water and is very pliable. Invest in a good reproduction bonnet, sun bonnet, or hat and hairnet (if you are in the younger, trendier set).

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Men's Hair

Advertisement, Front Page Hartford Daily Courant. Jan 4, 1858.

NEW, ELEGANT and FASHIONABLE HAIR DRESSING SALOON -- and -BATHING ROOMS

Joseph Guandalini has opened his New Hair Dressing Saloon, Nos. 77 and 79 Trumbull Street. (east wing of the Allyn House.) Capable and gentlemanly assistants always in attendance. All possible arrangements made for washing, shampooing, etc. Fine clean towels furnished each customer. A full stock of select Perfumery at retail. The best Hair Dyes and Restoratives at wholesale and retail.

Barbers. He that is old enough to remember the reign of Puvillo and Pomatum, now utterly passed away, will do justice to the former dignity and importance of these practitioners. When a cushion reposed umid the umbrageous labyrinth of every female head, into which pins of nine inches long were thrust to support the intricate expansion of her outfrizzed hair, while the artist busily plied his puff, surcharged with Marechale or brown powder, redolent of spice;-- when every gentleman's sconce was wavy with voluminous and involuted curls, and he sat daily in his powdering room, then an indispensable apartment, gazing through the horny eyes of his mask upon his puffing decorator, dim amid the cloud of dust as the Juno of Ixion; when all this complicated "titivation" was to be incurred with aggravated detail before every dinner-party or ball-- then was the time when the barbers, like the celestial bodies, which have great glory and little rest, were harassed and honored, tipped and tormented, coaxed and cursed.-- Horace Smith "Barbers" Ballou's Dollar Monthly Magazine (1855-1862); Jul 1862; 16, 1; APS Online, pg. 61

This site is maintained by Alaina Zulli. Last updated 01/09/2009