StylesThe typical bathing costume of the mid-nineteenth century consisted of a dress and pantaloons. Extra items such as capes, hats, and shoes were sometimes used, but they will be considered accessories and described below. Bodices:Two styles of bodice predominated- round, and yoked. A third, in what is sometimes known as the "princess" style, can be seen only in period fashion plates, such as in Godey's Lady's Book for July of 1864 and 1865. Unfortunately, there are no extant dresses in this style known to me. Round bodice: The round bodice is one typical of the 1860s. It has long, sloped shoulders, a jewel neckline, and a relatively full chest gathered or pleated into the waist. Unlike in regular dresses, the round bodices in the extant bathing dresses seem to lack a cut waistline. Instead, the bodice and skirt are cut in one piece, with the fullness at the waist basted into pleats and hidden by a belt. Examples of the round bodice:
Yoked Bodice: The yoked bodice resembled a style popular in the 1850s, which continued to be seen in work and children's clothing into the 1860s The yoke stretched from armhole to armhole, straight across the chest, about three inches below the shoulder. The body of the dress was pleated into the yoke, with the fullness basted at the waist and covered with a belt as in the round bodice style. Examples of the yoked bodice:
Necklines:The 'jewel', or simple round neckline was most common in the bathing dresses dating to 1865 or before. I can find only one example of an open "V" neck, in the engraving "The Bathe at Newport" by Winslow Homer. Collars of the same or contrasting material as the bodice are present on most of the extant dresses, as well as in engravings. TopThe most common fabric used for sea-bathing costumes was wool flannel. It was recommended an average of eighty-five percent of the time in period texts. Other recommended fabrics were serge, moreen, and linen. Several factors contributed to fabric choice. Most important was the perceived health benefit of a particular fiber. Wool, because of its ability to hold heat in even when wet, was considered most effective in guarding against disease. Wool was also thought to have special properties that encouraged healthy skin and blood by invigorating the pores. Also important was the shape of the fabric when wet. Flannel was a suitable fabric for bathing because it did not reveal the figure of the body, even when wet and clinging, due to its thickness and fuzziness. Serge was better, having a crisper hand, but was less popular because of its higher cost. A final concern was durability. Wool flannel was the most common "work" wool used during the nineteenth century. Fabric preference also changed gradually over the decades. Early bathing costumes were more likely to be made of linen than at any other period. High Victorians preferred wool flannel, and later Victorians moved on to more stylish fabrics like serge. TopHarper's New Monthly Magazine", June, 1852The women have also their baths at four sous, at which be it observed to their credit, on their own testimony however, they preserve an exterior decency not to be seen in the corresponding class of bathing houses among the males. The female bathing costume is much the same as that in use at Newport and Cape May. Occasionally are added ruffled night-caps and coifed hair, which are said to have, as can readily be conceived, a horrible effect. The most coquettish consider their "pantaloons" in different colors, and wear in the water their bracelets and necklaces. The advantage of costume, as compared with the male bathers, is decidedly with the female, though even among them, it must be ungallantly confessed, that the modiste's art performs wonders. The cafe scenes of the male schools are not rivaled in the female. Whatever emulation exists of this nature, is confined to the heroines of gallantry and opulent pleasure, who hold their baccanal revels apart. As I have lifted the vail from the male bathers, impartial justice requires at my hands the same toward the female. Voici! As on the pavement, beauty, grace and harmony, mingles with age, obesity and ugliness--the most delicious with the most grotesque and amusing images. Forgive me, shade of Mohammed! But, 'tis true, and pity--'tis true. --Editor's Drawer, "Harper's New Monthly Magazine", March, 1843Some one remarked to us last summer. "At this season of the year, there is one thing which the least observant mind can not fail to notice. I mean, that female modesty is very much a matter of habit, fashion, and convention. "We have here at New York, at the Battery, floating baths, very much resorted to by ladies and young girls who learn to swim there. Their costume is precisely the same as that worn at Newport and Rockaway. Upon no pretext is a father permitted to enter the establishment with his daughter, or a husband with his wife. A man who should dare to show his nose there, would be greeted with any thing but cordiality by the assembled naiads. "But at the watering places it is different. At Newport, for example, the ladies bathe full well with the gentlemen, and no one takes offense at it." The above was listened to by us with all proper indignation, and although we perfectly perceived the point of our friend's charge, we determined to refute him, which we did in the following terms. You have undoubtedly heard the story of the Christian Virgin, who cut her nose off in order to escape the importunities of a Roman proconsul. Well, you can see at Newport, Rockaway, Cape May, Rye Beach, and various other places, hundreds of women who follow this boasted example twice a day. With their bathing costume, their jackets, pantaloons, and oiled-silks, they look like a crowd of dripping monkeys gamboling on the beach. Obliged to bathe among the men, they have ingeniously adopted the plan of making themselves as ugly as possible. My adversary withdrew crestfallen, and I have prided myself, from that day forth, not a little upon my successful defense of the fair sex. The Science of Swimming, 1849As taught and practiced in Civilized and savage Nations; with particular Instruction to learners; also showing its importance in the preservation of Health and Life. Illustrated with Engravings By an Experienced Swimmer New York: Fowler and Wells, Publisher Clinton Hall, 131 Nassau Street p. 16- Bathing is best performed quite naked, but, as in bathing establishments in large towns and cities, and in thickly-settled parts of the country, decency forbids entire nudity, a kind of short drawers is worn, as may be seen in our engraving; and where ladies and gentlemen bathe in company, as is the fashion all along the Atlantic Coast, and especially at Rockaway, Coney Island, Long Branch, etc. Shirts and Trousers are worn by the men, and flannel bathing dresses, made for the purpose, by the ladies. At Coney Island, the nearest bathing ground to New York, there are small houses on the beach for both sexes, in which their bathing toilets are arranged, and from which parties of merry bathers issue, and the ladies are conducted into the surf by their attendant cavaliers, with less ceremony perhaps, but more fun, than is generally found in a ballroom. Many of our city ladies are also in the habit of frequenting the swimming baths, and this accomplishment has in more than one instance enabled them to save individuals of the other sex from a watery grave. P. 18 'Corks and bladders are often used as supports for learners; but it is much better to begin without them....Several large pieces of cork, uncut into stopples, must be strung up at each end of a piece of rope, long enough to pass under the chest and reach just above the shoulders; or well blown and properly secured bladders may be fastened in the same way. P.19 'A great variety of life preservers have been invented, made of Indian rubber, and cork shavings, in the form of jackets, belts, etc....but as their bulk is generally all around the chest, they hinder the free use of the arms... Swimming with the plank has two advantages. The young bather has always the means of saving himself from the effects of a sudden cramp, and he can practice with facility the necessary motions with the legs and feet, aided by the momentum of the plank. A piece of light wood three or four feet long, two feet wide, and about two inches thick, will answer... P. 35 'Swimming in New York' DR Rabineau, long connected with the bathing establishments of this city, assures us that there are not less than 3,000 ladies in New York, who are excellent swimmers, and who might, with entire safety, at any time, plunge into the water to save the life of a drowning person. At the principle swimming baths, teachers are engaged, expressly to teach the patrons of these useful establishments, especially in the ladies dept.- and if 3000 have learned so useful and accomplishment, there is no reason why every female in the city should not be able to enjoy the same elegant recreation. July 31, 1863 - Brooklyn Daily EagleMelancholy Accident at Coney Island- A woman Drowned.Yesterday afternoon a widow lady, named Mrs. Loomis, who keeps a confectionery store at No. 88 Fulton avenue, was drowned, while bathing at Coney Island. The deceased, for a long time past, has been subject to fits of insanity, and was twice placed in the Lunatic Asylum by her family. Latterly she seemed to be recovering from unsettled state of mind and continued so until a few days since, when she manifested symptoms of a return of her mental disease, and Dr. George Cochran was sent for. She had an extreme horror of being put into the Lunatic Asylum, and Dr. Cochran advised her family to keep a watch upon her and keep her in the house, as there was nothing dangerous or violent in her mental conception. Her family consisted of one son and three daughters, the eldest of the girls being engaged to be married to a young man named Henry H. Dudley, who boarded with them. For at least a week past the girls and Mr. Dudley have been constantly watching her. Yesterday she dressed herself and went out, saying that she was going to Coney Island. Mr. Dudley said that he would accompany her and they both went down. When they got to the Island she wanted to bathe, and Mr. Dudley got bathing dresses, and they both went into the water. Shortly after getting in Mr. Dudley cut his foot with a shell and went into his bathing room to dress it. While he was in there he heard people running and saying that a woman had been drowned. The young man went to the beach and found Mrs. Loomis lying dead on the beach. Coroner Ryder of Gravesend held an inquest on the body, and a verdict of "Accidental drowning" was rendered. In the account of the melancholy affair published in the morning papers, it is broadly hinted that there was some foul play in the matter on the part of Mr. Dudley, but from the statements of the members of the deceased's own family and the people residing in the neighborhood who knew the deceased, we are assured that there was not the slightest foundation for the statement, as Mr. Dudley had always manifested the utmost kindness and care towards the deceased, and is engaged to be married to her eldest daughter, and his conduct towards her is spoken of in the highest terms. Thanks to Marc Hermann for finding and transcribing this, and for noting that the article implies that bathing dresses could be rented at Coney Island. Godey's Lady's Book July 1864.As the warm weather is hurrying persons to the seaside, a few hints on bathing dresses may be acceptable. There is no dress so easy of accomplishment as a neat, tasteful, and comfortable bathing dress; and yet, sometimes, when watching bathers at the seaside, one is tempted to believe such an achievement impossible. Instead of the usual flannel, Mme. Demorest is making bathing dresses of moreen, and considers this material better adapted for the purpose. It is of a strong, firm texture; not too heavy, does not cling to the person after being in the water, as it immediately drains off. A very handsome suit just finished at her establishment, No. 473 Broadway, was of drab moreen, the waist plaited to a yoke, and into a belt at the back, the front left loose and belted in like a morning wrapper. The skirt not too short, about halfway below the knee, and plaited at the back in large box plaits; the sleeves full, and fastened by a close band at the wrist; a small round collar of the same material give a neat finish to the throat. The trimmings consist of a band of scarlet cloth, one inch wide, stitched all round the skirt, a short distance from the edge; the same on cuffs, collar, and belt. B1oomer pants, fastened into a band of scarlet cloth at the ankle, completes the dress. This suit should of course be lined, except the skirt, and was, in this instance, neatly done with a very thin muslin, with just sufficient texture to make it smooth; and the seams were covered in the same manner as a double gown. Another of the same goods cut like a circular, only joined on the shoulders, was nearly finished and was exceedingly pretty. The skirt being very full, with full sleeves and pants, and dark blue trimmings instead of scarlet, made a very tasteful suit. But we doubt the propriety of any but a genius at the work attempting to cut it. However, we remember that a duplicate pattern may be had from this establishment of any and everything desirable in the dress department. By the way, why does not some leader of fashion at Newport or Cape May introduce the havelock as an appendage to a lady's bathing hat? It is so disagreeable to have the sun beating down on one's neck, which it will do, in spite of the wide-brimmed hats. We merely throw out the suggestion. Newport Forty Years Ago--Memoirs of Anne C.L. Botta, 1894 From the middle of July until the first of September, Newport is at its flood-tide of gaiety and fashion. All parts of the Union, all classes of men, women, and children, all peculiarities of individual character, have their full representation, and studies abound. It is a general remark that persons learn more of one another from traveling together for a short time, than from long and intimate acquaintance in the routine of ordinary life; and this remark applies with equal force to a temporary sojourn at a watering-place. Thrown off their accustomed track, seen in the light of new circumstances, people daguerreotype themselves when they are least aware of it, and at moments when they think least of sitting for their portraits, which, of course, are not always from the most favorable points of view, and therefore, to me, not the most pleasant. A lady, not long ago, assured me that the White Mountains were becoming more fashionable every year, and I was about to repeat her remark with regard to Newport, which really seems every year to became a more favorite resort. Ornamental cottages, built in the most perfect taste, are springing up in various parts of the island, and for three or four months in the year they are the residences of some of the most distinguished families in the country, while the transient visitors who come to Newport for a few weeks or days number many thousands. The beach is unrivaled in its hardness and beauty, above all, in its safety, and from ten to twelve o'clock in the morning it presents a most lively and exciting scene. The bathing costume, which is frightfully unbecoming, is fortunately an effectual disguise, and the gay groups that issue from the bathing-cars, and bound with white feet over the sparkling sands to "wanton with the breakers," seem like unknown genii from the coral caves. A gentleman remarked to me, in view of those who came dripping from the foam of the sea, that hereafter he renounced his belief in the old Greek fable of the origin of Venus. In the afternoon, the scene on the beach is scarcely less animated. Its smooth, hard surface forms a most delightful drive, and splendid equipages, and vehicles of all descriptions, equestrians and pedestrians, give it great variety and life. Unlike most other watering-places, however, the attractions of Newport are entirely independent of the thousands who annually seek health or pleasure in its delicious air and its white-crested waves. Notwithstanding the almost entire absence of trees, the scenery of the island is remarkably picturesque. The undulating fields are covered with luxuriant grain, the cows and sheep feed upon the hills, the cliffs rise dark and frowning upon the shore, meeting unmoved the impotent fury of the angry waves, and around lies the all-embracing sea, restless as the heart of man, mysterious as its desires, and boundless as its aspirations. Aquidneck, the Indian name of the island, which signifies the Isle of Peace, seems particularly well adapted to this beautiful spot. Top |
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